Gigitt

when you put the battery in the handle it going to be heavy to hold - good thing it comes with a clip in cord to cig lighter... http://www.lightforce.com/products/portable-systems/rmsmrmsgriflescopeandshotgunmountedspotlights But you would be better off getting the Scope mounted version - connects to a battery/cig lighter, can be 1 person used (on a scope) and also still easy enought to use as a handheld!

Up to you to look up how to release the bolt firing pin... I know my Brno 22lr I just twist it in my hand - but my Tikka is quite a bit more difficult.

I would probaly use some PCV pipe (Electical Cinduit) cut them up into bolt lengths and then use come PVC glue to string them side by side together like a Pan Flute. Cut a U into the top front and then dtop the bolt in. The Bolt handle can sit in the U and is holds it all in alignment so they dont swing about. Now mount the whole PVC Bolt Rack to the Back of the Safe Door or something. You can then Use some Black Marker Pen to write on the PVC Bolt Tube Which Rifle it goes to. Cheers

oh... so a Savage BATS and a Rem 7615 pump with a Magpul Stock can

:D :D http://www.kineticresearchgroup.com/dealers.php International Dealers Down Under: Hinterland Shooting Supplies Pty Ltd (Australia) PO Box 807, Tewantin, QLD 4565 Phone / Fax 07 5455 6925 www.hss.net.au

nice options. I was considering the Wild Dog Stock. I have handled a 17HMR with one and it felt the great. My other favourite is the Whiskey-3 Chassis (W3C) (http://www.kineticresearchgroup.com/products/w3c.php) as for scopes I love the 25x for sniping. but I do not like the 8.5x the eye releif is very very narrow so I use it at 10x for close work. would like to get a side mounted red dot for the pesky pigs - as I litterally am walking up to them and hitting them within 20m

Setup: Tikka T3 Picatinnay 0moa Black Rail Tikka T3 Set Trigger Leupold VXIII 8.5-25x50 VH recticle Leupold PRW 30mm Med Rings Butlercreek Flipup Covers Tactical Bolt Handle Aluminium Bolt Shroud

T3 is a great gun.Quick to operate and can take a beating. My stock has been bumped and knocked so many times and there is not a mark on it. Varmint is a heavy gun - you have been told!. Out of the box Tack driver. I have also put a Set Trigger on it which makes a heap of difference for me on the longer shots. Dunno what the Light Force 170 scope mount are worth now. I paid $160 at Ag quip 4-5 years ago now. Buy extra scope mounts for your other guns ~$25, makes swapping light onto guns for spotlighting easy peasy. In the first Photo you can see my battery backpack. I use a 20Ah gel battery with a cigarette lighter adapter. Since Dad passed, all of my spotlighting has on foot. I take the motorbike then go walkies.

My 204 with the 170 Scope mount - it's a perfect match. ( i have since moved the rings and put the light behind the turrents to move the weight back)

I think the 240 is a bit over kill for foxes and rabbits - unless you need to hit them over 300m+ 170 will do just fine even with red lens - this is what i use for foxes and rabbits.

Red filter does not spook the Rabits and foxes etc so you can get closer to them and they don't bolt. Harder to see with but the eyes are lit up like lasers If your thinking about a hand held light - eg with a handle... then think about getting the Rifle mounted spotlight. It comes with detachable clip for scope. (Really good when you go solo spotlighting! ) And it can still be easily detached the rifle sling over the shoulder and the spotlight used as a handheld.

Lightforce are great. They are made from polycarbonate and really light. Have a focusing beam. Go the 170 for hand held/Rifle mounting Put a red filter on and you can still spot foxes at 300m. 240 is bigger and brighter, but also heavier and more suited for handheld/Vehicle mounted. You can put HID's in them, lightforce have a kit to do it. I have a Scope mounted 170 and also a pair of 170 for the front of the car whisle driving. I busted up one of the car spotlights when my handbrake let go and my car rolled into a another in front... one of the spotlights busted up the outer casing. Simple fix - used some Perspex/Acrylig solvent/glue and sealed it back together and it's water tight - can't be happier than that.

In NSW you have to notify the FAR if your guns are going to be stored in a different location for more than 14 days. eg say you go on a hunting trip for 3 weeks on a farm. All you have to do is email the NSW FAR ( firearmsenq@police.nsw.gov.au ) with Full name Lic# and DOB and list the guns make model calibre and serial numbers and the new address where the guns will be stored. When you get back home do it again with your home address. (note: NSW FAR will not reply with a confirmation - the gun location details are just updated as they are received) eg Letter

warning... scammer alert: http://www.shooting.com.au/forum/index.php?/topic/15917-conman-warning/

I cut my own rifle lean racks from MDF. Done it for 3 safes now. build it deep enough so that scopes do not rest on the back wall of safe. It also doubles as a small shelf for keys, cleaning products etc. They are just tight press fit in... so don't cut the width too small. Just angle into place then tap it horizontal with a hammer. also figure out how many guns you can theoretically fit (ie a 5 gun safe is usually 5 guns without scopes as they fit closer together. maybe 4 scoped or 3scoped +2) As for lining the safe, carpet off cuts, industrial carpet squares, heavy felt, rubber sheets from clark's. you only have to line the areas that might damage the rifle eg butt and scope area. The rack keeps the barrel off the wall. Don't forget to line the underside of the ammo storage/roof- protects the muzzle when lifting the rifle out. As for lighting... those portable 3LED light Pucks with a magnetic base. Touch click on and off and use 3AA batteries. Can get them from any supermarket or Bunnings etc. Stick them to the inside of the door or roof of safe.