black bear 84

THE 200 LUMENS BATTLE There are now a number of aftermarket lamps for the popular series of Surefire lights. They will fit the Surefires series: 6P, C, Z, D, G, and maybe others. I just received a new one that claims 290 lumens and is called a Cree R-2 (it’s supposed to be even more powerful than the Cree Q-5). I decided to do a shoot out with an assortment of lights that I have in the 200 plus lumens class. That way the members can see how they perform against each other. Run time was not measured for lack of time and because I am running short on 123’s batteries. The bigger lights, namely the Surefire M-4 with the MN60 lamp (225 lumens for 60 minutes on four 123’s disposable batteries) and the Bear Cub from Black Bear Flashlights (220 lumens for 90 minutes on rechargeable Li Ion batteries) are big throwers and with them you can see clearly objects 120 and 150 yards away. On the other hand the small reflectors of the Surefires G-2, Centurion 2 and Fenix T-1 are dispersing all those lumens close by, creating a great flood. Those pocket lights will be great to use as tactical lights by law enforcement personnel, and especially good at clearing houses, while the Surefire M-4 and the Bear Cub will make great lights for car, truck and the open spaces. The literature of the Fenix states that it’s good for 200 yards, it will probably make a reflective target like a stop sign glow at that distance, but it would hardly illuminate any other object. My perception from trials I made, is that this light as well as the others LED’s can’t be count to illuminate (poorly) objects beyond 60/70 yards. In any case, a lamp upgrade if you own a Surefire pocket light, is a good idea as any of them are more powerful than the stock incandescent lamp of 65 lumens or the stock LED lamp of 80 lumens. The lights as they appear in the picture are, from left to right: Surefire M-4 MN60 lamp 225 lumens for 1 hour (running on four 123’s batteries) Bear Cub 220 lumens for 90 minutes, rechargeable Surefire G-2 in yellow. It is 65 lumens for one hour with the stock P-60 lamp Surefire G-2 in black, Lumen Factory lamp incandescent of 160 lumens Surefire G-2 in green, Cree Q-5 by Deal Xtreme, 200 lumens Surefire Centurion 2 in Jungle Camo, 290 lumens (claimed) with the Cree R-2 lamp Fenix T-1, 225 lumens using a Cree Q-5 lamp And now the pictures, target is 20 yards away, watch also the amount of side spill as well as the throw. SUREFIRE M-4 DESVASTATOR 225 LUMENS BEAR CUB RECHARGEABLE 220 LUMENS SUREFIRE G-2 YELLOW 65 LUMENS SUREFIRE G-2 BLACK LUMENS FACTORY 160 LUMENS LAMP SUREFIRE G-2 GREEN, DEAL XTREME LAMP CREE Q-5 200 LUMENS SUREFIRE CENTURION 2, CREE R-2 290 LUMENS (CLAIMED) FENIX T-1 CREE Q-5 225 LUMENS One word of caution with high intensity LED lights: most are not thermally regulated and they will suffer from their own heat if used for an extended period. They will get very hot and the tint will change. Short use of 5 minutes or less is recommended, especially in lights like the G-2 that has a plastic body and head. All metal flashlights like the Surefire 6P are better at dissipating the heat, and in them a few more minutes of constant use can be achieved before the heat will damage the module. The big heavy head of the Fenix acts as a heat sink, and this light can manage to run much longer without the heat affecting the module. Besides, the Fenix has a second setting that will run the light at 60 lumens for 10 hours. So, if you already have a Surefire you want to upgrade, the aftermarkets lamps are great. If you need a new light look at the Fenix line. Cheers Black Bear

VERY INTERESTING ARTICLE BY JAMES MAURER ON THE BRIGHTEST LIGHTS IN THE WORLD THAT YOU CAN GET OVER THE COUNTER. THEY ARE ALL THERE THE TORCH, THE POLARION, THE BOREALIS, THE SUNFORCE, ETC. READ IT IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN LIGHTS http://www.jamesmaurer.com/worlds-brightest-flashlight.asp CHEERS

THE UTG BARREL MOUNT Hi guys, For those wanting a barrel mount for a flashlight or laser, I have had good results with the UTG barrel mount. Initially purchased for an AK rifle, I found out that it can be mounted in other rifle barrels, for example, it fits perfectly in a .22 rifle and also in a Mini 14 I have. It is a tri-rail mount with three Picattiny rails that will also accept Weaver style rings. My model is the #2 mount which have two slots; the UTG is also available with five slots that will accommodate the red dots scopes that are in the market. Picture of the UTG # 2 ] Another view The UTG fully loaded with two TACM III tactical lights (one with a red filter) and a laser. The UTG is sold by Cheaper than Dirt and I imagine others places that cater to tactical rifles. Just look in their catalogue in the AK accessories page. Cheers Black Bear

HUSKY 2D 3 WATT LED TORCH I was at Home Depot and I spied a new light in the flashlight section. The new torch is a HUSKY brand, which is a brand name of Home Depot. I have used some of their inexpensive lights; they are made in China and represent a good value in some models. The new light uses two D batteries (that are included in the package) and the source of light is a three watt LED. The difference in this torch is that the switch activates three different levels of illumination. The package lacks any instructions and doesn’t even mention the output of the light or the run time. So I am guessing that the first mode (the first click) is a 12 lumens light, second click at 40 lumens and the last click about 80 lumens. The idea of having three different levels is good, it will conserve battery juice when you just need a little light for illumination, and at the same time, the other two settings are there for more lumens when you need to reach farther or put out more intensity. As this thread is all about comparisons, I decided to pit the new HUSKY against a Maglite 2D LED 3 watt that I bought a few months ago. I purchased the Maglite from Wal Mart for $24 USD, but I think that it was on sale at the time, still price wise the two lights. Compare. The HUSKY is ½” shorter, otherwise they compare physically to each other and they weight the same, although the HUKY have a slightly smaller head. The outside of the Husky is finished in a slightly duller anodizing than the Maglite; both lights look handsome on the outside. In the inside the Husky shows the threads of the tail-cap, body and head very rough. Removing the head I found an adequate heat sink, although the mounting of the LED looks a little lousy. I wanted to take a look at the reflector and plastic lens, but it was not possible to remove the bezel despite my superhuman and my weight-lifter friend efforts - the bezel seems to have been super-glued in place. The tail-cap sports a flimsy lanyard that I will not trust to hold the light for long, and looking inside at the switch, I found it very cheesy looking, more appropriate for a toy than for a flashlight. The little strip of metal where the battery makes contact with the switch, it doesn’t look good either. The Maglite 2D on the other hand, is a high quality product with butter smooth threads, a switch that will last forever and a lot of well thought-out features (cam action, self cleaning switch, etc). The Maglite is an American product that should cost much more of what it does now. Old timers may recall that when they first show up in the 1980’s the price tag was $60 USD and that they were selling like hot cakes, the engineering of the Maglite was at that time well above any of the existing lights, including the Kel-Lite. In the picture you can see the Maglite 2D LED on left, the Husky light in the middle, and the red one on right is a Black Bear 720 lumens, (1 ½ million candlepower) a custom made light that shows how much illumination we can put into a Maglite “host” 2D, with a little ingenuity, and if the people are willing to pay the price of a custom product. Here are the beam shots for comparison, 35 yards to the fence. HUSKY 3 watt MAGLITE 3 watt BLACK BEAR 720 LUMENS My impression is that the Maglite has a much better beam, in color rendition and in intensity. Also, I can throw the beam of the Maglite much further than the Husky, even that both lights are 3 watt, the Maglite is better in quality of LED and power. Granted - the Maglite has a 2” full reflector, while the Husky could be only 1 ¾ “ that could account for the better throw, but the Maglite definitely has a whiter beam and it is more intense. Cheers Black Bear

THE CLASSIC SUREFIRE E1E EXECTUTIVE ELITE TORCH This light is a beauty, short, light weight, with considerable power and with a decent run time for an incandescent light In today’s market it is a little obsolete in the power department, as the Fenix line of small pocket/key chain lights put out more lumens and have more features. Still, the Surefire E1e is the “classic” small light that arrived at a time when 15 lumens was only achieved with big lights using 2D batteries. The E1e is extremely well made and finished in hard anodized type III in an olive drab finish; it weights 2.20 ounces and has a length of 3.40 inches. The lens is Pyrex and the reflector is stochastic, meaning that is finished with a light stippled pattern that makes the beam free of defects, rings and artifacts. The light runs on one of the RC123’s batteries with a run time of 1.5 hours, the beam is nice, but will not throw far as the reflector is quite small, and small reflectors produce quite a flood. The tail cap has three positions: unscrewed a couple of turns it will lock up the light (what is considered a safety position); screwed a little more, will allow activation of the momentary position by pressing the rubber button; screwed further, will activate the light on constant. The little light charges the battery from the front, that means you have to take the head out to install the battery, as there is not enough room for the battery to enter if you remove the tail cap, as in most other lights. The 15 lumens lamp is called MN01, and is 15 lumens of course; the MN02 is 25 lumens but it’s used in the E series Surefire that carries two batteries, as is the more powerful 60 lumens MN03. I see this light as ideal for a woman’s purse or a man’s pocket. Although the retail price is $79 USD the light is so well made that is worth it. Finally, the light sports a clip that can be used to clip it to the edge of a pocket for quick retrieval, or to the bill of a cap if you need to do some chore using two hands. Cheers Black Bear

THE FENIX P3D FLASHLIGHT I have purchased yet another light of the Fenix line. The new torch is the Fenix P3D, a multi-level light running on two 123 batteries. The P3D I bought uses a premium (Q5) Cree 7090 XR-E LED. The light is digitally regulated and has six levels of illumination. There are two modes of output that are selected by turning the bezel. The general mode is: 12 lumens for 65 hours, by softly pressing the switch; the second mode will be 53 lumens for 13 hours; pressing again will put you in the 120 lumen mode for 4.8 hours; and again will access the SOS mode (also 120 lumens). By turning the bezel you can access the turbo mode at 205 lumens, and pressing again softly on the switch will put you in the strobe mode of 205 lumens. The light has a low battery indicator. The indicator will strobe the light in low, very fast light; I had opportunity to test this when I put two inexpensive 123 batteries that I thought were both fully charged. It seems that one of them was with a very low charge, even though it was a new purchase. I had learned to use only the best 123 batteries that I believe are the Surefire brand. Putting the Surefire batteries in the P3D allowed the light to operate without a hitch. The light is 4.5” long and 0.8 in diameter. The anodizing is type III finish and the lens has an anti-reflective coating similar to what is put in eyeglasses. As like the other models of Fenix lights, the P3D also can be used in candle mode, as the rubber button doesn’t protrude like in other lights that are uses as tactical. A word of advice; use the 205 lumen mode very sparingly. The light gets hot very quickly in this mode and the excessive heat can damage the Cree emitter if used for a long time. If you need a light that can be used without damaging the LED in the higher setting for a long run, you have to purchase the Fenix T-1 that has a massive heat sink and bulky head that will draw the heat away from the Cree. As the LED’s lack the infrared spectrum of light, the heat is concentrated near the head, instead of been thrown forward as the incandescent lights do. The light comes with a handy holster. This is one torch that I don’t mind not having a clip, as the holster is very flat and comfortable to wear. This light is so handy that it has replaced my Surefire E2e that was the light I used to wear for years when I went out of the house. I also have another light on my key chain, another Fenix product, the L1D, a one AA battery light with multiple levels. Carrying now the two Fenixes, I will have light for a long time if I am involved in a situation that I need to use them. The P3D can be used as a tactical light if the distance involved is short, like in an interior house situation. However, if the light were to be used to illuminate somebody in the back yard, the brightness of the 205 lumens at say, my usual distance of 26 yards, will be not be sufficient to blind a person as the tactical lights are supposed to do. I know because I tested it on myself at that distance, and the blinding effect was not present. To illustrate the point I use another light that is also in the 220 lumens bracket, the Bear Cub incandescent, 220 lumens for 90 minutes. If you look at the pictures you will notice how strong the concentrated white beam of the Bear Cub is in comparison to the flood light of the P3D. Also notice to the right of the subject how the incandescent light reveals leaves that are not shown in the beam of the Fenix. This is the famous lack of definition that I often talk in my posts; it can be translated as lack of detail from the LED beam. For that reason I think that the 26 yards to the fence is the maximum range of the little reflector of the P3D. Bigger reflectors like in the Fenix T-1 with the same Cree Q,5 can reach as far as 50 yards. A word of advice, don’t try to make the little, svelte P3D do the job that is designed for the T-1, just confine the P3D for the house and other places with short range. P3D beam from 26 yards, Bear Cub beam from 26 yards Coming back to the P3D, it has a strobe effect in the 205 lumens setting; it will not do anything different to my eyes than the actual steady 205 lumens light can do. Must be all my disco dancing in the ’70 had me accustomed to the strobe effect. The little torch is good, that is why it is my new light over the E2e. Placed in the holster or in your pants pocket, you hardly know that the light is there and a lot of cool features and power are just at your fingertips. I recommend it highly. Regards Black Bear

I need my lights to be waterproof. So, I placed the Fenix T-1 in a vase full of water, in the sixty lumens setting for four hours. No water got inside the light. Yes, I know, it is a mild test, but in winter all the pools are closed and the pond is frozen. Cheers Black Bear

THE FENIX T-1 TACTICAL LIGHT Fenix has come out with a new LED tactical light. It runs on two 123 batteries and outputs in the high setting 225 lumens for 1.5 hours. In the low setting of sixty lumens it lasts, according to the instructions, 10 hours. This new light uses a Cree Premium Q-5 7090 XR-E that is said to make 225 lumens. It could very well be as it trounces every other LED light that I have in the stables, including my darling E2e modded with MacGizmo PR T head. The light output is really impressive for an LED; it even has a very decent throw that is sufficient for tactical use inside and even outside. I have tested it against other tactical lights like my Surefire Centurion III with P-91 lamp (200 lumens) and it really compares very well, to the point that I will carry from now on the new T-1 instead of the Centurion III. My neighbor’s door is 50 yards away and the light illuminates the target quite well. The package says that the range is 200 yards, which is an exaggeration, and I can’t see any illumination at a target placed 200 yards away. My regular testing for long distance is a hydrant at 88 yards and a group of trees at 111 yards. This light will illuminate the hydrant, barely. I can see that the outline of the hydrant is there (The same with the Centurion III) but I can’t make out any detail or see it sharply. If the target were a human at that distance, I will be not able to tell if it is a bad guy with a gun or a nun with a cell phone. My incandescent rechargeable Bear Cub light at 220 lumens can illuminate the hydrant and the group of trees at 111 yards and go beyond, It is well known that incandescent provide longer range and better definition. Granted the Bear Cub has a bigger reflector and the light itself is longer at 9 inches. THE BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS, THE FENIX 225 AND THE SUREFIRE CENTURION III WITH P-91, 200 LUMENS The T-1 has a massive head with a wall of 4.5 mm thickness, and the light is quite heavy in comparison with other tactical lights. But it is the price you pay for running an LED at 225 lumens, as all this mass of metal is needed to divert the heat away from the batteries. You may know that the LED’s unlikely incandescent that throw the heat forward as infrared, accumulate heat near the source of light, that is why they have to have a heavy heat sink, this heavy head act as one. Otherwise the heat will reach the batteries and when a certain point is reached the internal protection that the 123’s batteries have, will cut down the juice, and stop the light. So, they advertise the light as been built like a tank, but now you know what is the real reason behind all that metal at the head. The light is say to be waterproof and it passed my four hour test in a BIG glass filled with water. Now in winter is no way that I am going to test it further by doing some diving. I love the switch; it is just have the right feel for the momentary action, so good that it can be strobe as fast as you want if that is your cup of tea for tactical encounters. It is permanent on by clicking it, and can be unscrewed to put it in safe mode for when you carry the light in luggage or back pack. The tail cap of the switch has a hole for a lanyard that is included and you can stand the light on its tail cap on a flat surface for a candle mode. What you cannot do is use this light with the Roger-Surefire or cigar grip because the rubber button is recessed flat with the tail cap. Inside the package I found a spare button and O rings, I applaud that move by Fenix, and it is appreciated as some of us use the lights hard. The T-1 comes with a holster, which is okay, but it also have a sturdy clip that grasp my belt very well and lower the profile on your waist in comparison with the holster. The only thing about the clip is that it rubs on the body of the light when you want to access the low mode of 60 lumens. We will see how good is the hard anodized type III as the clip is rubbing against the light with a good pressure and I suspect will be soon marked by a line. BEAM SHOT OF THE THREE LIGHTS ABOVE, 26 YARDS RANGE, CAMERA AT 12 FEET FENIX T-1 SUREFIRE CENTURION III WITH P-91 LAMP BEAR CUB 220 LUMENS Anyway I think that the Fenix T-1 is one of the better lights that have hit the market lately, it is very rugged and is very well made, and well worth the price of 76 USD that I have paid for it. Regards Black Bear

Markzz, I am envious, here in the states we cannot hunt from a vehicle and at night only for varmint such as coyotes and foxes. That is why the development os very powerful lights such as the Borealis 1050 lumens, as many varminters have to do the spotting and the shooting by themselves. If in Australia you have the luxury of having a light man, I don't think is any reason to limit the size or power of the spotlight. As for the headlight I have had good results with the incandescent Princeton Tec Predrator, running on 4 AA batteries, but also lately with a Ray O Vac LED Sportsman Xtreme. As for the favourite hand held, it all depends on how many lumens I want to do a particular job, there are situations in which a Fenix L1D is enough light and there are others when I need the lumens output of a Bear Cub 220 lumens, or even a Borealis 1050 lumens. I am buying more torches and doing more reviews, that will come out soon. Thank you for your appreciation of the thread Cheers Watchmaker

INOVA X5 T LED FLASHLIGHT My INOVAS X5 Tactical are about two years old; I bought them because the futuristic design, quality of materials and workmanship and because of the revolutionary technical advances in illumination was state of the art at the time of my purchases. The INOVA X5 is a beautiful light, the smooth soft flood provided by the five Nichias 5mm LED’s is unparallel (or was at the time) in flood light illumination for short range. Comparing it with others LED lights of the time like the Peltz Tikka (3 LED’s) the illumination provided by the elegant INOVA was far superior in flood and in range. Probably the reason is the two 123’s batteries that the light works with, we have here 6 volts of power for the five Nichias, providing up to twenty hours of run time. Physically the light is 865.” in diameter and 4.75 “long and weights 3.56 oz. the flats along the body provide a nice grip, the tail cap is knurled very fine and it have a transverse hole for a lanyard. The tail cap is a “tactical” one in the sense that it can be pushed momentarily (on the soft pad) for illumination or can be locked steady for constant by screwing it more. It also have a lock up feature (unscrewing the tail cap a little) to prevent accidental activation. I think that I paid about $37 or so for this light, it is a high quality light and worth the money, it will not have a long range and the stated 120 feet in the literature of the package seems a little excessive to my eyes, in any case it is a flood light and not a light for distance. For the same reason I am not doing a beam shot to my customary deer target at 26 yards, the camera will not process enough light at that distance. But this beam shot at 13 feet can’t give you an idea of the soft even flood illumination with a more intense center. There are some X5 that have a different switch (one that is not tactical) these lights doesn’t have the “T” denomination in the package. The user of this light for the first time will be surprised by the arrangement of the batteries. They are installed with the positive going toward the tail cap. The threaded tail cap is butter smooth in the threads, high quality all the way in this light, good solid feel without being heavy and according to the literature, crush-proof to two thousand pounds. The lights come in black matte anodizing or satin nickel, (called Titanium finish) and I have one of them sporting RED LED light, this red light X5T for some reason needs only one 123 battery. This is the light I use to drain all capacity from 123’s batteries that can not longer power my incandescent Surefire Centurion III. You can get several more hours of illumination from those “depleted” 123’s when used in this light. Although we have now more powerful LED lights, the INOVA can provide many hours of illumination from the batteries and is a pleasure to use such a well constructed and designed high quality torch. Cheers Black Bear

ULTRA FIRE FMR1 REBEL LUXEON 200 LUMENS ONE CR 123 A BATTERY I bought this light from Deal Extreme for $23.24 shipped. I was very curious to try one of the Rebel 200 lumen new Luxeons and I think this is the best way to try one inexpensively. The light has a click on, click off switch and five modes of intensities. The low mode is 30 lumens and is said to last for 24 hours. Another is 100 lumens for six hours, and the 200 lumens mode is three hours; then you have a strobe mode and an SOS mode. I used a new Battery Station 123 and in the high 200 mode it lasted for ½ an hour, and it gets hot very quick. I don’t know if the poor run time is the fault of the battery that was under-charged, or if the light will perform the same with others 123’s, but that is the results I got. Due to the small head, the flood effect is quite pronounced and the throw is poor for a 200 lumen light, but I was expecting it to be that way based on experience with other small headed keychain-type lights. Two hundred lumens in a two inch head of an incandescent will put a level of illumination that is tremendous in comparison to the small head of the Rebel 200 lumens. So we are in a time when we can no longer make an assessment based on the lumens figure, that is when the comparison pictures that I have been taken show the value, as the viewer can see for himself how the different lights with the same value in lumens output perform in real life. If I consider the low price I like the little light in general, excepting the side switch that can be a little hard to find in a rush, as it is kind of recessed in the head of the light and difficult to find by feel alone. I will have preferred a tail switch such as I have in my Fenix L1D, but it is a tremendous price difference between the two lights, so all things considered I think that the Ultra fire is a great value, and I can put up with the side switch. After trying to like the clip for a couple of weeks, I ended throwing it away, it is too flimsy and I will not trust it to keep the light in my pocket. The light is regular anodized, but had stood well the use in my pocket with keys and coins. Here is my usual 26-yard beam shot against my deer head with the Ultra Fire 200 lumens And here is a beam shot with the 220 lumens Bear Cub rechargeable that sport a two inch head and have a range of 150 yards. All the best, Black Bear

Sorry Slinger, I don't have the Khales. COMPACT BINOCULARS Hi guys, Many people will think that because I am advocating full-sized binoculars most of the time, I don’t have any use for the small, light, and compact binoculars that are so popular in the market. This is not the case at all! I use them and enjoy the lightness and small size when the occasion is favorable. Actually, if you are not into serious birding or need a full-sized binocular to evaluate elk antlers at last light, the small compact binoculars make a lot of sense. Take, for example, initiating my European vacation starting at London about ten years ago. I decided that I needed a small binocular that would fit into my already nearly full camera bag. I found my price in Portobello Road, a small reverse Porro prisms 8x by 24 mm Pentax binocular. Perhaps you are not familiar with what a reverse Porro prisms is; in this class of binoculars (to make it compact), the designers invert the relation of the barrels and oculars. The objectives are actually very close together, and the big separation is in the ocular lenses. The Pentax has the diopter adjustment in the right barrel, like other modern binoculars, this particular model comes very well coated with magnesium fluoride for good light transmission and the focusing of the binoculars is all done internally, unlike other Porro prisms, which means that there aren't moving parts that can bring dirt or moisture inside. The unit is rubber coated and weighs 10 oz. My steel tape says that it is 3 ¾" long by 3 ½" wide. A well constructed and solid unit, as you can see in the pictures. I haven’t seen this particular model in the Pentax line lately, but I don’t doubt that what they are putting out to replace it is as good as the model I have, which has been tested in many hikes and been under rain when accidentally left for two days hanging from a branch at the top of a ridge. Best regards, Black Bear

THE BOREALIS FLASHLIGHT 1050 LUMENS Three years ago the Borealis flashlight was conceived to be the most powerful military/police flashlight in the world. At 1050 lumens the beam of light is very similar to a two million candlepower spotlight, all that power cased in a 12 ½ inches long, 28 oz. light, that will run for 50 minutes before needing a recharge. Then the light uses a fast RC charger that does the job of recharging the high current batteries in 90 minutes. Three years ago everybody was in awe of the Surefire M-6, a military/police light that makes 500 lumens for 20 minutes run time on six disposable 123’s batteries, at a cost of almost $12 per twenty minutes run. When the agency pays for the batteries, all is well, but for the civilians that wanted to have those mega lumens of light, there was no option. Black Bear Flashlights wanted to produce a rechargeable light that surpassed the M-6 and still be affordable for those with mortgages and families, and the result was the Borealis 1050 lumens flashlight. The light was conceived to make use of a well known flashlight shell that is available anywhere, that way after years of hard use, the shell can be replaced for less than $20 USD and in ten minutes of the owner’s time. The super-bulb that is almost 3 ½ amps needs some very powerful batteries; those nine AA batteries of high current are housed inside a Rolls Royce battery carrier that has also a charging port on the negative side. Plugging the RC fast charger in this port for 90 minutes, will recharge the powerful AA Nimh batteries. THE ROLLS ROYCE BATTERY CARRIER AND THE RC FAST CHARGER The Borealis also has some especial components to cope with the increased heat from the bulb. A ceramic switch/bulb holder, a solid aluminum reflector and a Pyrex lens, take care of the high temperature issue. The BOREALIS is the highest intensity incandescent flashlight available in the market. Some HID’s lights throw more lumens, but those are considered searchlights and not flashlights; as a HID can take as much as 30 seconds to start up, they are NOT instantaneous as the incandescent flashlights are. HERE ARE SOME COMPARISON BEAM SHOTS AT 35 YARDS WITH THE MOST POWERFUL MILITARY/POLICE FLASHLIGHTS. THE CONTENDERS FROM LEFT; MAGLITE 3 D, MAGCHARGER, ULTRA STINGER, SUREFIRE M-6, AND BOREALIS MAGLITE 3 D (the most popular police flashlight) MAGCHARGER ULTRA STINGER SUREFIRE M-6 BOREALIS RECHARGEABLE Black Bear Flashlights spends several hours on each light working on fixing all the internal resistance issues and pro-gold all contacts and components for an increased conductivity. This results in their trademark of intense WHITE light as more voltage reaches the super-bulb. This bulb is not a flashlight bulb, but one made for powerful medical instruments. THE BOREALIS ROYAL MODEL, WITH THE NEW LOW PROFILE STAINLESS STEEL CRENELLATED BEZEL AND QUICK DETACH SWIVEL. Police officers have adopted the Borealis for its tremendous throw and flood capabilities; hunters have abandoned their spotlights for the easy carrying of the Borealis, and civilians looking for a powerful light for the car or for home defense are flocking to the Borealis flashlight. Respectfully Black Bear

DEAL XTREME LAMP, AGAIN HI GUYS, THIS IS A COLLABORATION FROM CHEVROFREAK The problem with the Deal Extreme modules is that none of them use thermal regulation to reduce the drive current to the LED to control the temperature of the lamp. LED's do not like high heat. It reduces their efficiency, shortens their lives, and can cause the tint of the light output to change. The Nitrolon body of the G2 acts as an insulator rather than a conductor, so that heat just stays inside of the lamp and cooks the LED. These modules are better suited for use in aluminum bodied flashlights like the 6P. They'll work alright for short bursts in the G2 (I'd say a max of 5 minutes) but extended use is not recommended outside of an emergency. Surefire recently released a G2L and 6PL that uses their P60L LED module. It has a sensor under the LED to cut the current back when the LED gets hot, in order to prolong life. Well, the G2L has only been out for a few months now and Surefire has already made a change in it. They swapped the Nitrolon bezel out for an aluminum one in order to help dissipate heat. Since they did this with a light that uses a thermally regulated module, it makes you wonder just how incredibly hot the non-thermally regulated modules actually get. Actually, I don't have to wonder since I tested a Deal Extreme 4068 module in a G2 and after just a few minutes it was too hot to hold in my hand, and the tint of the beam had shifted blue. It was perfectly fine in an aluminum bodied flashlight, though.

DEAL EXTREME VERSUS P-60 LAMP FOR SUREFIRE TWO CELLS A while ago I bought one of the Deal Extreme new Cree lamps advertised to fit the Surefires for two cells, like in the 6P, G-2, Z-2, C-2 etc. Yesterday I installed it in a Surefire G-2 (the yellow one). The fit is not exactly perfect, as you can see in the picture, the lamp is a little longer than necessary and the bezel doesn’t close all the way, like in the green G-2. I guess I can fix the gap by instating an O ring, a trip to Home Depot to get one in necessary. Inside the house, at short range the output is considerable; I think that at the short distance inside the house I will prefer it over the P-60 lamp. Outside, the P-60 lamp is giving me more range and more picture detail up to maybe 45 yards, at my usual range of 26 yards (where I test all my lights against the deer head) I will say that they both go head to head, as you may see in the pictures in the general illumination department, BUT the definition of the foliage to the right of the tree (at the height of the posted sign) is better with the P-60 incandescent lamp. Many G-2’s gets to be mounted in carbines like the M-4 or M-16, I have people ask me if I will use the Deal Extreme lamp in them, (As they suppose to resist recoil better), well, no, I still prefer the P-60 lamp for the extended range and even better the P-61 lamp for the increase brightness and coverage with their 120 lumens. G=2 WITH DEAL EXTREME, RANGE 26 YARDS, CAMERA 12 FEET. G-2 WITH P-60 LAMP Any way it is not recoil that break filament lamps, but it is the vibration of many rounds while the filament is very hot, that explain why during the 1920’s and to the 60’s tigers were hunted from machans using regular 2 and 3 D flashlights clamped to the barrel in powerful rifles like the 470 Nitro Express, without any trouble with the bulbs. It seems that one or two shots, will not affect the filament, no matter how much the recoil is. After all the filament is very lightweight and the inertia is just not there, because the lack of real weight. All the best Black Bear