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Jase

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Posts posted by Jase

  1. I use LED now, quite a number of different units. I've previously used the Lightforce unit with a battery in my backpack as you have. Lightforce are coming out with a new rifle mounted lighting system. I saw it in the last shooters mag, but I can't find anything online about it yet. Looks nice and small, low profile (hate how easy it is to knock the current lightforce type units) and I think they have an internal battery system.

  2. Be mindfull of VOX if you are hunting with someone else. I've been with hunting groups that use VOX and they can activate with brushing through bush. Scrubs sounds transmitting to 10 or 12 UHF radios will scare anything off. You can also get throat mics for a lot of UHFs. They are great for nice clear sound (no wind noise) but just check that they will operate/activate if you are whispering, the cheap ones often can't. Also good if its super cold and you have a face mask or or something over your mouth. The big benefit of throat mics is that you can run all your leads under your shirt/jumper.

    Jase

  3. Hey guys.

    I'm lookin for some good wet weather gear for hunting. I have some nice gear from Lamellar for summer hunting and thermals are great and all. I will be doing some hunting in the vic high country. I'll no doubt end up in rain and want something that is going to keep the most of it off.

    Any suggestions?

    Cheers,

    Jase

  4. Price really is a second consideration at this point. I know the Badlands gear, particularly those with the Hypervent are around the $300, and I consider that fairly acceptable. I do have a limit, but that said I have to consider what I'm getting for my money, and if I get a lot more comfort, features etc for a little more green then I'll pay it.

    The areas where I will be using can be pretty harsh on gear, and the Badlands has got me there because of the warranty. The frame is something that just makes sense to me. If the military uses it, it has to have some merit. I've carried a friends pack that used an ALICE style frame and it was almost like it wasn't on compared to trying to carry a pack with that much weight and no frame.

    Nice thing waist straps are definitely something I am looking at as well. Nothing worse than those thin bloody things that just dig into you. HJ, how important are the chest straps? What exactly are they designed to do; I assume that the shoulder and waist straps were the main load beaing areas.

  5. I've been doing a lot of searching on the net for the different types of packs you can get. I normally use a cambelbak unit that has sort of a backpack on it as well, but I am looking for something a little larger, and without the 3M reflective stuff thats a dead give-away.

    I know the badlands gear is very good, and I've seen lots of other brands that appear to be top notch. There are 2 issues that I have though. Firstly, I get very hot while I'm hunting and there needs to be decent air circulation/ventilation around my back to keep me cool and comfortable. The bandlands gear has a hyper-vent series which looks perfect and creates the space I need. Lots of other brands have foam padding with channels etc which I guess would work ok as well, but my Camelbak has that and it's not the best.

    The second issue that I have is that I don't go on 3 or 4 day long hunts. I do a lot of day hunts starting in the morning, walking most of the day and then coming back to camp, or heading back to camp for lunch then head out again. A lot of the packs with the good features seem to be pretty big, probably too big for what I need. I want to make sure that I can still move around in the bush more or less the same, and not have to think about a massiave pack and how I am going to get inbetween trees and bushes and scrub etc.

    The gear I need to carry is basically water and light food for the trip, first aid kit, ammunition, gps etc. I need space in there to take off a jumper/vest.jacket as the day warms up too.

    Question is, do I look for a smaller pack that has ok features and is the ideal size of my hunting style, or do I look at the larger type packs with the best features and just deal with the fact that it's a little bigger than what I want.

    The Badlands Diablo seems to be their smallest offering with the hypervent: http://badlandspacks...ks_Hypervent08. It runs in at just under 2000ci, where the Camelbak Blowfish that I have is a 1200ci.

    Love to hear your thoughts or suggestions on other packs; experiences with different gear, what to look for what to aviod etc.

    Cheers,

    Jase

  6. Further to boot selection, how do you decide if you get insulated or not, and what weight of insulation you get? Those Pronghorns come in non-insulated, 200g, 400g, 800g, and 1200g. I know the higher the number the warmer they will be, but is there some sort of scale that indicates appropriate temps for the different levels?

    The other thing, is does the insulation actually take up space int he boot? If you wear says size 10 and thick socks, can you still wear a size 10 with the 800g insulation and the same thick socks?

    Cheers,

    Jase

  7. Guys,

    In my search for new camo I've found that majority of the "silent" stuff has and outer shell of brushed fleece. I have some stoney creek gaiters made out of the same stuff and they pickup burrs and grass seeds like nothing else.

    For those of you using any gear with this brushed fleece type outer, do you have issues with burrs and seeds etc? If so is there a wsy to limit it? I've spent an hour or more pulling crap off my gaiters and I really don't want to have to do the same with pants ans tops.

    Cheers,

    Jase

  8. Rewire sounds like the way to go. I'm still using the cig lighter plug/socket deal that came with the nght hunter pack. I have added elastic strap on there that keeps a good solid connection between the plug and socket. When it wears out or breaks, I'll be using a latching type connector. Merrit plugs, small anderson type plugs, anything that will ensure a good solid connection and allow enough current to flow.

    I've actually converted my lightforce 140 to a HID. The ballast is a bit of a pain to have hanging around, but man the light output is just incredible. Easy convert too.

    Jase

  9. Peltor SportTac. Best bit of gear I've bought in ages. Keep the noise down, means you can still listen to conversations, keeps your ears warm on cold days.

    Infact, the ones I have if the volume is cranked up, it gives me way better hearing that I actually have. I have hear critters using them that are a fair way away, that I never would hear without them. Carefull of maggpies or crows over the head with the volume cranked though, it'll scare the #### out of ya!

    Jase

  10. This may sound like a stupid question, but what on earth do you use the gut hook for? I've skinned and gutted bucket loads of rabbits, but not much else so I am by no means an expert. I think I may know what it gets used for but wanted someone to tell me for sure.

    Jase

  11. Ouch, thats a little more than I have to spend. But thats the point here, I don't want to spend money on rubbish. The D740 has 50% better resolution than the PS22 unit so thats a big plus, and reason for price no doubt.

    I've thought about the zero issue. Obviously you have to have it concentric to the scope, but once you have that, I thought that holding zero would come down to the mount.

    I was after the "down the tube" kinda images. I want to actually see what I would see if I bought xxx model. I know you can find the advertising style media around, but real world photos from users gives a better idea.

    Jase

  12. I know there have been a number of threads about NV gear. I've made my own spotting scope, but it doesn't tend to focus well beyond 30 yards. I have been seriously considering an off the shelf night vision unit.

    I've looked at the PS22 unit as a day/night conversion. I would rather have a conversion unit rather than a dedicated night only rifle. Im wondering if anyone has had personal experience with any of the day/night conversion units, or indeed any off the shelf type NV rifle scopes. It's not a small amount of money and I hate the thought of buying something that just doesn't give me what I want. Ideally I'd like to be able to shoot at least 200 yards with it.

    Keen to hear some feedback. any scope photos would be great too if anyone happens to have them.

    Jase

  13. I'm interested in buying a GPS. First of all, I'm not talking about a vehicle only type gps, though if it happens to have that function it'll be a bonus. I'm talking about a GPS for navigation in the bush for walking. I am involved in organised culls in NE Vic, and those guys use the garmin eTrex units. They seem nice, they do the job for the Parks Vic guys, but I want something a little more functional. I've heard of and read some bits on these forums regarding topo maps. This is definately something I am keen for in whatever GPS I buy. On the cull trips they give us map coords for the areas we are hunting in, so I want to be able to plug those in and have it give us a direction where to go. Something that shows fire tracks, walking tracks, dirt roads, contour lines etc. And obviously something that will connect to my PC for updates.

    Anyone know of such a device, something that works well and meets my needs?

    I don't mind too much if I need to buy another map set for the gps, but I don't want to fork out hand over fist for this map and that.

    Cheers,

    Jase

  14. Fireman_DJ: when you talk about programmable radios... I have a uniden UH-500SX. I can program channels 41 to 80 for specific frequencies. I've programmed the local police channel for when I get bored but obviously can't transmit on it. Is that a limitation of the frequency being outside normal public uhf bands? If I program these new frequencies into the radio do you think I would be able to transmit?

    Cheers,

    Jase

  15. Run the exact pack. Am happy with it. I got a second mount so it was a little more versatile. The battery live is not great with the battery that comes with it, maybe an hour, but reduced light towards the end. Plenty of light for a walkaout light. Focusable (nice feature).

    It does add the weight of the battery to you while walking. It's an all poly carbonate construct so it's not too bad on the rifle weight, just dont put it too far forward and you'll be right.

    Couple suggestions:

    Get a larger battery from Jaycar. I got an 18Ah battery (up from the 6Ah or 7Ah that comes with the pack). I hooked up a lighter socket (also care of jaycar) and it works exactly the same as the one that comes with the pack. It is pretty heavy, but throw it in a small padded backpack and you hardly notice it.

    You can get a 100W vertical fillament bulb. They rekon that 100W is too hot for the 140 diameter reflector but I never have any problems at all. Though I haven't yet tested it in the summer, I doubt it would be any different. The vertical fillament is important to give you the right spread of light. Horizontal fillaments are bloody useless.

    I've just upgraded my 100W bulb to a genuine lightforce HID conversion. I am on the fence here, but I think it might be as good or a little better than my 9" powabeam light, and that sucker is huge. The big benefits are, slightly whiter light tends to be easier on the eyes (for me at least), and the bulb only draws 35 watts of light. On my 18Ah, I could spotlight for 5 or 6 hours at full blast without any dimming.

    Last suggestions is, if you aren't going to upgrade the battery and plan on going for long walks, definately take another torch. Rifle mounted or otherwise. That stock battery tends to go from bright to clapped out in a matter of 15 minutes it seems. And it sucks to be in the middle of no where, no moon, no other torch (Only ever once)

    Otherwise, it's a good peice of kit. To keep the cells good, make sure you charge them for a good 24 hours after you get home. They need to be stored charged, and a top up charge for a few hours before you go doesn't hurt.

    Cheers,

    Jase

  16. Where's the part about over 1mW being impossible? That document you posted a link to only states you need B709B and B710 approval forms and permission permission from the weapons licensing in the relevant state to import lasers stronger than 1mW.

    You are right, Jase can't read, ignore him ;)

    Jase

  17. It's illegal to import lasers over 1mW. The only way you can get anything more powerfull into the country is to buy a laser module (not an actual laser pointer) it's designed to be a replacement module for laser light show machines.

    You'd never get anything like that into the country. they are above 10mW, and in some cases much much higher.

    http://www.customs.gov.au/webdata/resources/files/LaserPointers.pdf

    Jase

  18. Len, 04 dual cab hilux is the car it's going on to.

    Assailant, I have to agree with you. The light shining on the bonnet is bloody annoying, and there is less light that goes to the other side of the car because of the height. I seperated the cables between the handle and the light with some spade connectors. With some extension cables if you like, you'll get the length you need. The support a light has a thread tapped into the top of it if you recall. All you'd have to do is get some steel tube of the correct diameter, tap a thread into it (the same as in the top of the support-a-light) and whack that tube between the light itself and the top of the SAL. The half sunshade would certianly work to keep the light off the bonnet, but that spill is always nice to see the road when the headlights are all off.

    Jase

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