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damige

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Posts posted by damige

  1. Will and of the new 78 channels align with the current 40 channels? Or will we have 118 channels during the change over time?

    Guys, if you do want to buy a radio NOW, may I suggest the Icom 41S. Costs a little bit more, but it's actually an 128 commercial radio in disguise.

    I'll be able to program in the new 78 channels and still have 50 spares for other stuff that I do (commercial channels, licensed to use).

    Thats good to know i was looking at getting some new radios but i found that i thought bugger ill wait.

  2. From another forum, but relevent to most hunters, If you have been thinking about updating and purchasing a NEW UHF CB, you may want to wait 18 months, as in 2011 we will see the UHF CB Band change from the current 40 UHF CB Channels to 78 UHF CB Channels.

    In short, they are changing the 'step' between the channels from 25kHz to 12.5kHz so they fit twice as many channels in the same bandwidth.

    There will be 16 repeater channels including the retention of the existing ch5 emergency repeater.

    Ch 23 and 24 will be retained as telemetry/telecommand channels that can not be transmitted on by CB users (these channels have been phased out and not available on many UHF radios made over the past 5 years already)

    By 2016 the 40 channel UHF radios we use today will be obsolete, to an extent - they will continue to work, but will not be able to access the new repeater (duplex) or simplex channels available. By 2016 only 78ch UHF radios will be available to purchase (new).

    The new radios will utilise the existing antennas and will likely not look any different to the radios we use today.

  3. Hi All,

    After talking to a few of the other AusHunt Members about radios for Hunting i was wondering if any other Members would be interested in joining in a Group Buy for the

    Icom IC-41S 5watt Radio. These units retail at $470.00 and after a few Calls for a min of 6 units i have been Quoted $385.00 and im still waiting on a couple other's to get back to me and if any interstate people are interested shipping would be an extra cost.

    Welcome any interest.

    link to radio details

    http://www.icom-australia.com/products/uhf/uhfcb_ic-41s.html

  4. Behave cj7 dont build their hopes up to much its a plain looking thing and its not put together yet, but it gives a good idea of what it will look like later on.

    I have come up with an idea for the protector to go over the switch made from ally.

    Keep in mind guys this is the proto type, and the reason i have sent it to Cj is for him to give it a go over for changes before i start on them, he is also marking the position for the rail mount.

    Just for your info boys the end cap with the lens on it will only go in 1 way so there is no mix up due to the alignment it has to align with the power hole, as for the alignment of the end cap and the int/f the key on the int/f is the thing that aligns that, you can see from what i have said it all slips together, cant go wrong so dont worry goss lol.

    As for the other end all you will need to do is slip the outer ring on the int/f use silicone on it and the tube, its a neat fit and just slides together this keeps everything in the center and no electric shocks, you then fit the plastic to the eye glass end cap with silicone its a neat fit, you then insert the unit into the tube and it will locate into the rubber on the end of the int/f.

    Thats the tube done.

    Then we have the rail to mount, and the battery box.

    Ill leave the rail out of it for now as it has a bit of mucking around to do.

    As for the battery box it is pre drilled and the tube its tapped to suit, you will use silicone on the base of the box and screw it down and seal it.

    Im also going to leave the electrics out of it for now, but it is simple only 2 wires and 1 screw to worry about.

    The battery box comes with a 2 piece lid for good reason, the reason being so you dont have to upset the electrics when you change batteries it also leaves the tube sealed.

    Please feel free to add input when you see the pics,

    Because the rail will allow you to mount it as a scope in the end result, it needs to be fixed to a decent base, ally tube is not a decent base so i need to fit a strip of 3mm steel on the inside of the tube so the rail can be bolted to it, this will be pre drilled and tapped for you.

    CJ has surgested that we drill a couple of holes into the rail so you can add a strap for a sholder strap to cart it around if you wish.

    It has taken 4 days to get to WA and it has to come back yet.

    Cj will give you all the info on what switch it is etc and where you can get them i gess.

    Again the battery box will be pre drilled for you to fit it, i should have drilled the holes for the switch and wires so you could see where things go but im in a hurry to get this thing finished.

    Ill just mention the power contactors in the lense end cap to the int/f they will be springs 3 off x 3mm fitted into the end cap, i will fit these before you get the unit as i will have the drill for them to be a good fit.

    Hope i have not scared you off or peed you off, have a look and say what you think, we have to get this one right.

    Cheers.

    Looking forward to seeing the pics sounds great

  5. Looks the goods Damige. What was the total build cost on that job?

    To get the Kit from whitetail with everything to build was about $170.00aus and the camera cost about $105.00 from the US.

    The rest was time the cam hack took about 30mins to do.

  6. I'm having trouble with whitetail supply at the moment. I ordered a "kit" from them 2 weeks ago and as stated on their website you make the payment for the item then wait for an invoice for the postage. I waited a week and then sent them an email asking for the postage invoice, no reply, again another email. Three days ago I sent another email, stating that I'd make a dispute thru paypal...no reply. So thats what I did, then the same day I get an email form whitetail stating that I have to remove the complaint in order for them to invoice the postage. Finally a reply after a paypal complaint... Now I cant go and remove the complaint as you cant re-open disputes once theyre closed, otherwise if my parts dont turn up stiff cheddar for me. I requested a refund so I can make another order and hopefully get a timely invoice for the postage, but he doesnt to want to do that. Looks like I'm gunna have to claim against them. Really poor buisness in my experiance so far... will keep yous posted.

    #### thats not good, every time i have ordered from them i have had an email for postage the next day.Keep us posted mate

  7. If you look at 90 % of work boots sold here in aus they have sizing on them , sample blundstone boots i got for around camp this week and for mowing the lawn and so on at home, size aus/uk 81/2, usam91/2,usaw---- os it helps in getting it right also most site's have a diy sizing chart, place foot on paper trace around measure and look at chart and it works.(thats what i did for the first pair i got ) hope that helps

  8. I have to agree Gryph, wearing work boots in and around camp yes they are ok, but not going up and down ,contuoring a mountain hunting i have tried both blunys and steel blue, i now have 2 pairs of rocky's and my son also has a pair and we could not be happier, good ankle support warm in the cold stuff and water proof, im looking at getting a lighter boot now for summer, its a shame that the aussie market place dos't have the range of boots like the US so if you cant find a good one here go US and put a good boot on your feet ok

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