Night Vision Scope For Spotting - Project - Like To Join In?

[Worm]

Nice. Look forward to the pics/results

[Duncs]

Eeeeeeeeexcellent

[optic]

Behave cj7 dont build their hopes up to much its a plain looking thing and its not put together yet, but it gives a good idea of what it will look like later on.

I have come up with an idea for the protector to go over the switch made from ally.

Keep in mind guys this is the proto type, and the reason i have sent it to Cj is for him to give it a go over for changes before i start on them, he is also marking the position for the rail mount.

Just for your info boys the end cap with the lens on it will only go in 1 way so there is no mix up due to the alignment it has to align with the power hole, as for the alignment of the end cap and the int/f the key on the int/f is the thing that aligns that, you can see from what i have said it all slips together, cant go wrong so dont worry goss lol.

As for the other end all you will need to do is slip the outer ring on the int/f use silicone on it and the tube, its a neat fit and just slides together this keeps everything in the center and no electric shocks, you then fit the plastic to the eye glass end cap with silicone its a neat fit, you then insert the unit into the tube and it will locate into the rubber on the end of the int/f.

Thats the tube done.

Then we have the rail to mount, and the battery box.

Ill leave the rail out of it for now as it has a bit of mucking around to do.

As for the battery box it is pre drilled and the tube its tapped to suit, you will use silicone on the base of the box and screw it down and seal it.

Im also going to leave the electrics out of it for now, but it is simple only 2 wires and 1 screw to worry about.

The battery box comes with a 2 piece lid for good reason, the reason being so you dont have to upset the electrics when you change batteries it also leaves the tube sealed.

Please feel free to add input when you see the pics,

Because the rail will allow you to mount it as a scope in the end result, it needs to be fixed to a decent base, ally tube is not a decent base so i need to fit a strip of 3mm steel on the inside of the tube so the rail can be bolted to it, this will be pre drilled and tapped for you.

CJ has surgested that we drill a couple of holes into the rail so you can add a strap for a sholder strap to cart it around if you wish.

It has taken 4 days to get to WA and it has to come back yet.

Cj will give you all the info on what switch it is etc and where you can get them i gess.

Again the battery box will be pre drilled for you to fit it, i should have drilled the holes for the switch and wires so you could see where things go but im in a hurry to get this thing finished.

Ill just mention the power contactors in the lense end cap to the int/f they will be springs 3 off x 3mm fitted into the end cap, i will fit these before you get the unit as i will have the drill for them to be a good fit.

Hope i have not scared you off or peed you off, have a look and say what you think, we have to get this one right.

Cheers.

[damige]

Behave cj7 dont build their hopes up to much its a plain looking thing and its not put together yet, but it gives a good idea of what it will look like later on.

I have come up with an idea for the protector to go over the switch made from ally.

Keep in mind guys this is the proto type, and the reason i have sent it to Cj is for him to give it a go over for changes before i start on them, he is also marking the position for the rail mount.

Just for your info boys the end cap with the lens on it will only go in 1 way so there is no mix up due to the alignment it has to align with the power hole, as for the alignment of the end cap and the int/f the key on the int/f is the thing that aligns that, you can see from what i have said it all slips together, cant go wrong so dont worry goss lol.

As for the other end all you will need to do is slip the outer ring on the int/f use silicone on it and the tube, its a neat fit and just slides together this keeps everything in the center and no electric shocks, you then fit the plastic to the eye glass end cap with silicone its a neat fit, you then insert the unit into the tube and it will locate into the rubber on the end of the int/f.

Thats the tube done.

Then we have the rail to mount, and the battery box.

Ill leave the rail out of it for now as it has a bit of mucking around to do.

As for the battery box it is pre drilled and the tube its tapped to suit, you will use silicone on the base of the box and screw it down and seal it.

Im also going to leave the electrics out of it for now, but it is simple only 2 wires and 1 screw to worry about.

The battery box comes with a 2 piece lid for good reason, the reason being so you dont have to upset the electrics when you change batteries it also leaves the tube sealed.

Please feel free to add input when you see the pics,

Because the rail will allow you to mount it as a scope in the end result, it needs to be fixed to a decent base, ally tube is not a decent base so i need to fit a strip of 3mm steel on the inside of the tube so the rail can be bolted to it, this will be pre drilled and tapped for you.

CJ has surgested that we drill a couple of holes into the rail so you can add a strap for a sholder strap to cart it around if you wish.

It has taken 4 days to get to WA and it has to come back yet.

Cj will give you all the info on what switch it is etc and where you can get them i gess.

Again the battery box will be pre drilled for you to fit it, i should have drilled the holes for the switch and wires so you could see where things go but im in a hurry to get this thing finished.

Ill just mention the power contactors in the lense end cap to the int/f they will be springs 3 off x 3mm fitted into the end cap, i will fit these before you get the unit as i will have the drill for them to be a good fit.

Hope i have not scared you off or peed you off, have a look and say what you think, we have to get this one right.

Cheers.

Looking forward to seeing the pics sounds great

[cj7hawk]

Behave cj7 dont build their hopes up to much its a plain looking thing and its not put together yet,

Ok, I'll play it down then... I'll just all what came in the mail.

First, it's plain as Optic says.. Plain means unpainted. Second, it's not finished. OK.

Now.. It's precise. And it fits together so easily that it's purely an "Assembly" job. That said, it's not certain that there won't be any changes... Already, I am lining them up to see if Optic can make them. There are some serious simplifications that can be achieved here. Don't worry too much, Optic, they are simple changes. I'll draw them up tomorrow and email them.

Unfortunately, I don't have the electronics for this here - So I'll get another set on Monday Morning. The parts are almost generic though, so it will be possible to make your own from stuff you buy locally. Then I can send it back to be with Optic again by the weekend.

And I have an idea about the ground contact I'll try this weekend. Anyway, I have to assemble it to functional, so I can check the focal distances, etc.

Low key enough?

That said, Optic's work on this is incredible... Very nice... I don't think anyone will be disappointed.

David

[Guest caveman]

as long as i don't have to do fiddley #### i'll be impressed,

[optic]

fiddling is womans work mate, if it ends in ING its shelas work.

Cooking, washing, mowing, cleaning, think about it boys.

There will be no fiddling with this bit of gear i assure you it will go together like a finger in a you know what.

[cj7hawk]

fiddling is womans work mate, if it ends in ING its shelas work.

Cooking, washing, mowing, cleaning, think about it boys.

There will be no fiddling with this bit of gear i assure you it will go together like a finger in a you know what.

Heh, but some "ing" stuff I'll gladly do...

Like Shooting, Camping, Building, etc.

Anyway, here's some teaser shots... Remember, these are just images during creation of a prototype. I spoke to Richard today about some of the ideas and he's got a good idea of everything needed right to the end

You can't see the precision with which he's made everything in these photo's, but you can get an idea of how thoroughly he's thought it out ( yes, I did some of the original design, but even then Richard had a lot of input at that point... ). Examples are the separate switchbox from the battery box. That allows the unit to be sealed and weather resistant. It also means you can slip some clean silica gel ( Those little packets you get with some stuff ) into the top partition and keep it from fogging up without needing nitrogen.

Then the mods to the end caps are Richard's idea - and they work really well... I had no trouble firing the tube up with earth running through the tube into the ground ring.

I messed up the eyepiece, though it still works - so Richard's going to fix that ( needs to be 5mm shorter ).

Also, you can see how it's C-mount - The lens or lens adapter will just screw straight into the front.

David.

p.s. That "Zoomed" shot - Super Zoom Mode... That "free" telescope I mentioned will screw into the back of the scope to allow zoom mode without sacrificing intensification.

Edited March 6, 2010 by cj7hawk

[optic]

Yer well i act dumb when she asks about fishing camping and hunting.

And i pretend im asleep if its anything other than that.

[cj7hawk]

Yer well i act dumb when she asks about fishing camping and hunting.

And i pretend im asleep if its anything other than that.

This morning my wife looks down at my trousers beside the bed on the floor and fixes me with a stare that could bore a hole through steel plate at 50m.

Then she points to them and asks "How did they get there?"

OK, I know everyone's first instinct is to tell them it's none of their business, but she's been good to me and it would be wrong to disrespect her. I nod politely, walk over to the draws next to the bed to let her know I understand and hold my hand out. She picks them up and hands them to me. I immediately roll them into a ball and toss them back on the floor, lodging them exactly where they were before.

"That's how they got there," I say.

Then she hits me... I don't get it? She asks me a question, I answer it honestly and now she's all mad at me...

A bloke can't win can he?

David.

[optic]

Yer i know how you feel, my visiting g/f walks into my house and says what are all those socks doing there i cowl down and say im sorting them my sweet cake, 2 weeks later she walks in and says why are those socks still there i cringe and politely say they are not the same socks mylady, then she eats all my food showers uses my towels and walks out and says you use soap yo need to clean that bathroom more often, in a cringe i ask if i dont use soap what do i use my love, she stands over me and growls use body wash, i just say (yes dear) i have some for the dog ill use that.

And i think ill move in with it.

[Worm]

Anyone considered using a USB IR mouse from a computer to put on top of the NV scope? USB runs on 5V or similar doesn't it?

Just pull the guts out of it and whack it on top?

[cj7hawk]

Anyone considered using a USB IR mouse from a computer to put on top of the NV scope? USB runs on 5V or similar doesn't it?

Just pull the guts out of it and whack it on top?

I'm not really sure what you're trying to create here ? Do you mean as a source of a targetting laser? There are some awkward laws regarding lasers ever since people started shining them at planes. Besides, you can buy <1mw lasers quite cheaply, so it shouldn't be an issue.

I put a reflect scope in front of my Gen2 NV kit last night and took a photo -

It works pretty well - It's just a matter of getting the NV scope within the reflex scope's optical axis... At least partially.

David

Edited March 8, 2010 by cj7hawk

[Worm]

Using a IR laser that will be invisible for us to see but should create light for the NV scope to see better at night?

[Worm]

Oh, you can still use lasers legally. As you pointed out, less than 1mw is fine. They are used quite often by rock climbers and also lecturers @ Uni. I wonder if it would show ok through a NV scope? Might be to bright?

[cj7hawk]

1 mW is WAY too bright for a NV scope on a dark night, though it should be possible to turn it down to the point that even a red laser wouldn't spook anything and would be invisible unless it was pointed directly at you.

I don't think it would be difficult - what is difficult is importing the aiming mechanisms... They are usually attached to lasers of around 5mW, though I did link to one earlier that claimed <1mW.

As for illumination? Lasers are great for several hundred meters... I tried a Gen1 laser with my PVS-4 a few months back ( Another forum member came by for a visit ) and it made a HUGE difference. Like a spotlight right out to 250m ( the longest distance we could test over ).

However they are very narrow.

A few weeks back, I was just using 2 x LEDs... 400mW total. Wide angle ( 40 degrees ). They were great. Good illumination out past 50m - perhaps out past 100m. I didn't walk it out but they saw eyeshine a , long long way away. Well over 100m. Probably around 200m and that was just 2 of them on 2xAA batteries. These LEDs are dirt cheap ( I have a bundle I've been taking off old broken IR cameras )

Anyway, you can buy IR lasers in Melbourne from memory. Up to several watts. Not so useful for the spotters, but might be exceptional for my next project.

David.

[optic]

Lets not talk about that project just yet cj.

Lets get this one finished.

Or these guys will have abrain like mine (fried.)

But it will be an interesting project guys.

Cheers.

[Worm]

So in theory an IR laser from a mouse should work. And even run off the battery already used by the NV scope as USB uses 5v and rechargable put out 1.2V x 4 = 4.8V?

Ill try it if I can pick one up cheap

[cj7hawk]

So in theory an IR laser from a mouse should work. And even run off the battery already used by the NV scope as USB uses 5v and rechargable put out 1.2V x 4 = 4.8V?

Ill try it if I can pick one up cheap

Yes, though why waste all that power on the chip and everything else?

Just pull the laser out and run it straight across a 1.5v battery.. Or you can get a constant current driver from a LED and use that. But it's going to be way too narrow and probably too low power to be of any real use.

There are some cheap options...

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.31592 - $3.46

http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.ir%20torch

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2047

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.12625

These would all give exceptional illumination -

Though that said, have you been able to try your scope out in really dark circumstances yet? I'm curious as to how it performs -

David.

[Worm]

Yeah, I tried it on the weekend. It was bucketing down so I only used it from camp under the tarp. There was NO stars/moon and I was in the middle of the bush. I had the F2 lens and it worked out to about 30m I reckon. It was hard to test properly under the conditions, but I was surprised it still worked ok.

No pics taken though. Ill take it out with me every trip so ill get a pic eventually