Hairyhunter Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Hi fellas's I have come to a stage where I am drowning in my accessories and general hunting, camping and 4wd gear. With the risk of sounding like i'm converting to budhism I need to simplify my life and have decided to clear a lot of gear and replace and leave myself with just the basics , but the VERY BEST ONLY! I need your help to decide on what to replace with and what is worth keeping. I am starting with knives..I have probably over a hundred very decent knives (i am an ex schrade wanabe collector) but want to cull that back to about 1/2 a dozen and preferably three. What is the best knife out there that you guys own and have had experience with. I am keen on a Knives of Alaska triple combo with a Skinner, caper, and a cleaver. Hoping this set is as good as it gets, as it it certainly pricey enough. RRP $530 US, Is there anything better. It does not have to be a $20,000 collectors like a one-off loveless or something, just a great knife even from an unknown knifemaker is fine. I think these use 440c stainless for the knives and D2 tool steel for the cleaver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zardez Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 What are you doing with the old stuff? Sounds like a good plan mate wish I could make myself do the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 What are you doing with the old stuff? Sounds like a good plan mate wish I could make myself do the same We have a council rubbish collection scheduled in a few weeks :D :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltonaHunter Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 If I had bottomless pockets I'd try and find knives made of stainless damascus or if a standard knife steel rwl-34 or one of the cpm steels for higher edge retention.440c is great for corrosion resistance but will need more touch ups when used. Real nice looking set of blades though, covers all your field needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zardez Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 We have a council rubbish collection scheduled in a few weeks :D :D Any of it worth selling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Any of it worth selling? Just kidding Zardez, it's all worth selling, I will ebay some of it and grease the rest and put them into long term storage for when my kids start popping out grandkids, they will make a mint from some of my collection then I expect. I'm just not into it anymore and want just the best working gear for my hunting and go minimalist. I am sick of filling up a landcruiser for a solo three day trip to the brim, just in case I need it. Can't help myself..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltonaHunter Posted February 15, 2011 Report Share Posted February 15, 2011 Just kidding Zardez, it's all worth selling, I will ebay some of it and grease the rest and put them into long term storage for when my kids start popping out grandkids, they will make a mint from some of my collection then I expect. I'm just not into it anymore and want just the best working gear for my hunting and go minimalist. I am sick of filling up a landcruiser for a solo three day trip to the brim, just in case I need it. Can't help myself..... I've got two sets of kit myself, one for backpack hunting and the other for a full camp setup. I bought a kero heater at a garage sale last weekend which seems to work well but will take up even more room in the canopy. I recently constructed a garage to store all this stuff so I can use my car garage as intended. Back on the knives lm guessing the set pictured is for back at camp, do you already have a fav field hunting knife? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Altona, that's pretty much how I view it, to have a base camp setup and a backpack kit. Nevertheless I still want even the base camp to be fairly minimalistic, but I am slowly putting together just a list of the essentials, such as 2 sleeping bags; an ultralight summer one and I got myself a down hagloff bag for winter about a year ago. I have about 6 different tents all I need is a backpack ultralight tent and a large base camp tent and so on. I also want to overlap some of the gear where I can to further minimize it. Such as knives. Re; knives I mainly use a schrade uncle henry 153 for skinning (1970's high carbon not the later stainless, holds an edge very well) and a Schrade 499 , which has a fairly narrow blade for boning. I also carry a Schrade Uncle henry 197 linerlock knife which I use for food and cooking etc as it is a nice long & sleek blade on it. I carry these all in a knife role with a ceramic rod and a pen style Victorinox daimond sharpener rod. I usually pull the 153 out to put on my belt when backpacking. Thats my culled version, I used to take over a dozen knives with me at first. But I figure that considering I am culling down the volume of gear that I will treat myself to the very best and I can subsidise the new knives with selling a few of my current ones. I was looking at one last night which caught my eye as a field knife/s Knives of Alsaska have also got a premium range, believe it or not the one I pictured above is just a standard knife set of theirs, a combo skinner and caping set is about $800 US for the 2 knives but it tests about 65-68 rockwell hardness on the blade without being brittle and apparently holds an edge better than any other knives on the planet. hers the link Friction forged D2 tool steel it also resists corrossion as opposed to most high carbon knives. Maybe this for my field set and just the cleaver out of the tripple combo as an supplement to help quarter and bone the large stuff, or maybe just a gerber bone saw (EZ saw). That's why I am asking what combos you guys have found useful. It might seem overkill to carry three blades but how else would you quarter a sambar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunta20 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 It's not that hard to quarter a deer with just a knife just find the sockets and they pull apart straight away and for the brisket just use a strong knife hold it with two hands and push down through it. But have a look at the puma white hunters they are brilliant knives but maybe a bit dear just for one knife Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 It's not that hard to quarter a deer with just a knife just find the sockets and they pull apart straight away and for the brisket just use a strong knife hold it with two hands and push down through it. But have a look at the puma white hunters they are brilliant knives but maybe a bit dear just for one knife Hunta, thanks. I checked out a few Puma listed on Ebay and a couple of questions presented themselves. The puma knives all appear to be about 10"-11" inches so they are quite a large knife. Are they not a bit too big do you think as an all round skinner and a bit hard to manoeuvre? Also they are 440c steel, it's a pretty common steel and I think all my schrade knives are made of 440c. The Puma have a Rockwell hardness of 55-56 as opposed to 66-68 with the friction forged D2 steel I mentioned for the KOA. The price of a more expensive Puma seems to be comparable to the KOA friction forged blade. Hunta, do you actually own a Puma and had good results? I saw a Puma made in Spain, only $165 US, is it the same qual as the German made Pumas? Are all 440c blades pretty much the same? My schrades are usually rated at Rockwell hardness 58 from memory. The harder the better it holds an edge from what I understand? Sorry its all a bit disjointed but was typing as I was thinking. Not real worried about the cost as it's a once off. I also expect that the best performing knife will not cost over $500, it's only the collectors pieces that attract the silly money. Having said that I suppose 500 can be considered pretty silly money too for a knife. Any insight/answers would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AltonaHunter Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Keep in mind that a higher Rockwell hardness doesn't equal a better knife, it will mean the edge will hold for a longer time but it will certainly take longer to sharpen and more skill is required to maintain the correct angle when you do sharpen. I know many knife makers try and aim for a Rockwell of 58-60 for field use knives even when they can be heat treated to a higher hardness. Personally I wouldn't pay any more than $200 for a hunting knife, idealy for me a drop point hunter full tang, made of 1/8" rwl-34, stainless bolsters, nice peice of stabilized amboyna burl handle, filework and mosaic pins. Back at camp I'd like to have a boning knife and a clever made a similar way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tezza Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 (edited) My favourite general bush craft knife is a Fallkniven F1 For a camp knife I use a Ka-Bar, WW2 style US Marine knife For skinning and caping I use a Grohman Canadian Belt Knife and a Havalon Piranta with the replaceable scalpal blades. I've gotten great service out of these knives and i'm pretty happy with them. Edited February 16, 2011 by Tezza Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Keep in mind that a higher Rockwell hardness doesn't equal a better knife, it will mean the edge will hold for a longer time but it will certainly take longer to sharpen and more skill is required to maintain the correct angle when you do sharpen. I know many knife makers try and aim for a Rockwell of 58-60 for field use knives even when they can be heat treated to a higher hardness. Personally I wouldn't pay any more than $200 for a hunting knife, idealy for me a drop point hunter full tang, made of 1/8" rwl-34, stainless bolsters, nice peice of stabilized amboyna burl handle, filework and mosaic pins. Back at camp I'd like to have a boning knife and a clever made a similar way. Altona, I think its usually it's because they worry about the knife being too brittle and chipping and snapping and also as you say harder to sharpen, th KOA although having a 65-68 hardness on the blade along the cutting section, is only hardened to 62 along the spine to temper it where it needs. I am am not decided on the KOA friction forged and am trying to ascertain if it is just hype, but have been going through the hardcore knife-maker forums and I have yet to see a bad comment about them, usually just a bit of scepticism from an occasional guy that has not had a chance to test them yet. They sure look great so far. Has anyone read the blurb on their website yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 I was hoping this would be easy and that there was a master cutler in our midst that would tell me get this that and the other, because........ Tezza did you choose these specifically or did you end up with them by default and ended up happy with them? What do you like about them over others you may have used, apart from some obvious advantages like disposable blades not being a hassle to sharpen and such. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunta20 Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Hunta, thanks. I checked out a few Puma listed on Ebay and a couple of questions presented themselves. The puma knives all appear to be about 10"-11" inches so they are quite a large knife. Are they not a bit too big do you think as an all round skinner and a bit hard to manoeuvre? Also they are 440c steel, it's a pretty common steel and I think all my schrade knives are made of 440c. The Puma have a Rockwell hardness of 55-56 as opposed to 66-68 with the friction forged D2 steel I mentioned for the KOA. The price of a more expensive Puma seems to be comparable to the KOA friction forged blade. Hunta, do you actually own a Puma and had good results? I saw a Puma made in Spain, only $165 US, is it the same qual as the German made Pumas? Are all 440c blades pretty much the same? My schrades are usually rated at Rockwell hardness 58 from memory. The harder the better it holds an edge from what I understand? Sorry its all a bit disjointed but was typing as I was thinking. Not real worried about the cost as it's a once off. I also expect that the best performing knife will not cost over $500, it's only the collectors pieces that attract the silly money. Having said that I suppose 500 can be considered pretty silly money too for a knife. Any insight/answers would be appreciated. I dont mind useing a largeish knife for skinning i prefer it over a small knife its quicker then a smaller blade. We do own a few pumas and my dad use to use white hunters all the time. yes the harder the steel the longer its holds the edge but it does take longer to sharpen. i like the steel to have rockwell hardeness of around 57 then its not to hard to sharpen when your out in the bush so you can just touch it up on a steel when you need. And sharpen it properly again back at camp or home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 So being it a fairly standard hardness blade, and I'm not being a smart ass, why do you pay quite a bit more than simillar other blades out there, what other advantages do you find with the white hunters? I know that sometimes its just that a knife feels great in you hand, what's it for you with the Puma? I must be starting to sound quite annoying guys and thanks for bareing with me. but I want this to be my last knife purchase, ever. I would like to get it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goswasere' Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 You guys sound like knife experts to me but I thought I might add my 2 bob worth any way: I found a lovely Hen and Rooster stainless drop point with a full tang and antler handle online for 50 bucks at deadwood.com It probably doesn't have the hardest blade on it but I don't have to touch it up too often and when I do that's not hard either. I just can't see why you need to spend $500 on a working knife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gafloss Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 My favourite general bush craft knife is a Fallkniven F1 For a camp knife I use a Ka-Bar, WW2 style US Marine knife For skinning and caping I use a Grohman Canadian Belt Knife and a Havalon Piranta with the replaceable scalpal blades. I've gotten great service out of these knives and i'm pretty happy with them. +1 on the Grohman/D H Russell Canadian Belt Knife (skinner). It's not a large knife but it fits nicely in the hand and the angle of the handle makes it very comfortable to use. http://www.grohmannk.../pages/r1s.html Mine has the rosewood handle, steel & open sheath. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jindydiver Posted February 16, 2011 Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Altona, I think its usually it's because they worry about the knife being too brittle and chipping and snapping and also as you say harder to sharpen, th KOA although having a 65-68 hardness on the blade along the cutting section, is only hardened to 62 along the spine to temper it where it needs. I am am not decided on the KOA friction forged and am trying to ascertain if it is just hype, but have been going through the hardcore knife-maker forums and I have yet to see a bad comment about them, usually just a bit of scepticism from an occasional guy that has not had a chance to test them yet. They sure look great so far. Has anyone read the blurb on their website yet? It is of course an overstatement of what you will get, it is after all advertising from someone hoping to make some money back for their investment in expensive equipment. The "friction forged" part of the blade is only along the cutting edge and is only a few millimeters wide (maybe 5), the rest of the blade is kept soft at not even 50Rc. This means that on a D2 blade you are only getting "almost stainless" as majority of the D2 isn't benefiting from the friction process. I know that there would be no way I would pay $400 for a 2.5 inch bladed skinning knife. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairyhunter Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 It is of course an overstatement of what you will get, it is after all advertising from someone hoping to make some money back for their investment in expensive equipment. The "friction forged" part of the blade is only along the cutting edge and is only a few millimeters wide (maybe 5), the rest of the blade is kept soft at not even 50Rc. This means that on a D2 blade you are only getting "almost stainless" as majority of the D2 isn't benefiting from the friction process. I know that there would be no way I would pay $400 for a 2.5 inch bladed skinning knife. Jindy, I suppose that it's the usual situation of diminishing returns with "high-end" gear. Like Hi-fi's, cars, and scopes and guns. Every Swarovski owner always claims that it was worth paying 20x more for their bino's or Z6 rifle scope, even though they may not be 20xbetter than a $150 pair of Nikon glasses etc etc, the improvement in quality is often disproportionate to the increase in price. I think you get my point. I figure it may be the same thing with knives also. For some reason I have developed an insatiable lust for the best gear and figure life was not meant to be mediocre, I am also looking at a scope from US OPTICS that is $6,000. Who knows, I might be going through a mid-life crisis and can't afford a Ferrari and a mistress so I'm spoiling myself with a bit of hunting gear . But putting the philosophy aside, it would be nice to finish a few carcasses without having to touch up the blade at all. It would be great to hear from someone that has already taken the plunge and bought one, I am a bit of a coward when it comes to being the pioneer/guinea pig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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