trapper Posted July 24, 2009 Report Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hi, I use a LightForce SL140 (with ergonomic handle - not the RMSM type with bolt pivot point) with a scope mount while driving around. Now I want to add to the setup a LightForce door-mounted spotlight, such as with the "Support-A-Light"window bracket http://www.supportalight.com.au/supportalight.htm. It will be for a late model Hilux, & I'm wondering what will be the easiest handle to use - the RC150 or the longer RC225? I'm medium sized & want to rest my arm on the window sill while using the light. The store that will do a mail order has changed my quote from a RM240 to a SL240 - will the latter attach to the handle & have enough range of adjustments? Can the on/off switch on the handle control the SL240, without cutting/soldering/etc.? I heard once that this type of setup couldn't be locked in place for when you want to keep the spot on something while taking you hand off the handle - has this moderm gear solved the problem? The SL is supposed to have more candlepower than the RMSM (about 1 million Vc 750 000), as its bulb isn't the longlife one. Do I need to add anything to the list to be able to go spotlighting?: - *Support-A-Light *SL or RMSM 240 spotlight *RC 150 or 225 handle *spare bulb 100watt horizontal filament bulb Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
len Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 Get a vertical filament globe not a horizontal filament globe The vertical filament gives you a better light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick1970 Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 If you intend going spotlighting alone at any time, i would give the lightforce handles a miss. I find them fiddly to lock the light in position too leave both hands free for shooting. I had one in a window mount and now use a Blazalight handle thats much more user friendly. For spotlighting this time of year, a glove with the trigger finger cut of is also nice. Your hand can get pretty cold driving around all night with your arm stuck out the window Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUTTY Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 i used a hand held nibbler witch works off a drill which dad picked up for $40...never thought it would of been as good as i was though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted July 25, 2009 Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 I have a Support-A-Light with an RC225 handle, topped with an SL170 light. I find this setup to works very well. The RC225 handle has a built in tensioning system, that allows you to adjust the level of drag on the ball joint. If you get that set up right you can turn the light quite easily, but when you take your hand off the handle the light doesn't move. I cut the cable to the spot light and fitted bullet terminals to all of the wires. This allows me to mount the SL170 on the RC225 and use the handles switch or take it off and use it hand held. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trapper Posted July 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2009 epitome - is there any vertical adjustment in your setup - because the SL is missing the bolt-pivot point of the RMSM lights. rick1970 - is that Blazalight handle attached to a LightForce light? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 trapper, I'm not sure what you mean by vertical adjustment. If you mean it as in aiming the beam up or down, then yes, the ball joint allows pivoting up and down. If you mean it as in mounting the light higher or lower, then no the RC225 ball joint does not allow that. However, the Support-A-Light can be adjusted in different ways to achieve the desired height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trapper Posted July 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 Are either the LightForce, PowaBeam, or BlazaLight spotlights going to be forward-compatable with the new HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs that are coming out? Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick1970 Posted July 26, 2009 Report Share Posted July 26, 2009 epitome - is there any vertical adjustment in your setup - because the SL is missing the bolt-pivot point of the RMSM lights.rick1970 - is that Blazalight handle attached to a LightForce light? Cheers. Trapper - Blazalight handle is attached to a 11" Powerbeam light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Are either the LightForce, PowaBeam, or BlazaLight spotlights going to be forward-compatable with the new HID (High Intensity Discharge) bulbs that are coming out? Cheers. There are HID conversion kits to suit the SL170 and SL240 lights, sold on eBay. I'm sure you can get kits for the others too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
len Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 There are HID conversion kits to suit the SL170 and SL240 lights, sold on eBay.I'm sure you can get kits for the others too. Used a 240 with a HID conversion kit in it and they are awesome - will be converting mine shortly - you have to have the wires the right way round or they won't work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Great to hear len. Feed back like that is good to have, as you have used it and found it to work well. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo82 Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Just to throw in my 2c - I've used someone elses SL140 with the RC150 and the suction cup roof mount thingo on a 93 landcruiser and the handle was way too short for what you want, it was painful after a while. I'm not sure which handle would work with the door mount though - does anyone know if its easy to shorten the handles? If it is maybe buy the longer one and shorten to taste. The gimbal mount is awesome, adjustable tension and the light definitely stays where you point it, but takes a little bit of effort to sweep the light (I'm sure the longer handle would have helped me with that setup). I didn't mess with tension on the one I was using, it was someone elses rig but I'm sure the sweet spot could be found. I've used a HID converted handheld lightforce 240 very recently and I didn't think it was very good. I think it was an ebay kit fitted to an older housing. The light is lacking in wavelengths just like compact fluoro's in your house so you don't get the definition at distance like with a normal incandescent bulb. I didn't even think it was as bright as a normal 100W bulb, but it was a 35W kit not a 50W kit. I wouldn't waste the time or money on one now, be happy with a normal 100W bulb and run 6mm2 cable to the light and big crocodile clips straight to the battery. Oh and waiting for the HID lamp to warm up to full light after switching it back on takes far too long and it doesn't keep your hands warm like a normal light either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
penguin Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 I have 2 Lightforce SL240 spotlights and used them both one night after I had one converted to 35watt HID. In one paddock on my property we could see a mob of pigs all the way over to the far boundary fence as they were entering the paddock, the other 100 watt SL240 only threw its beam 3/4 of the way across the open paddock and left the pigs in total darkness. I am now gonna convert this SL240 to HID after seeing that. penguin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo82 Posted July 29, 2009 Report Share Posted July 29, 2009 Which kit did you use to convert to HID out of interest penguin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
len Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 Here's a supplier of the conversion kits http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HID-KIT-FOR-LIGHTFO...id=p3286.c0.m14 Note that they are not suitable for the older model lights - its explained in the ad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
len Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 Here's a thread on Doing It Yourself - the cost is higher but this could be offset depending on where you can source the materials from http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43203 You could use this method to upgrade non lightforce spotlights by fitting the ballast in the box mounted to the base of the handle as in the second example Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted August 1, 2009 Report Share Posted August 1, 2009 Here's a supplier of the conversion kitshttp://cgi.ebay.com.au/HID-KIT-FOR-LIGHTFO...id=p3286.c0.m14 Note that they are not suitable for the older model lights - its explained in the ad Yep that is the kit I'm looking at getting. Its pretty cheap too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo82 Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 The ebay one is the one that I used, it had the round ballast mounted on the back of the light. Just a pity its not a 50W HID. I know they are available, equivalent to 135W+. The 35W is meant to be equivalent to a 100W incandescent bulb. Or so I understand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epitome Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 AFAIK - Even the 35w HID's are supposed to run at 5,000K which is twice as bright as a 100w Halogen globe. They're meant to be only 2,500-3,000K. The 50w HID's are supposed to be at about 7,000-8,000K or there about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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