Night Vision Scope For Spotting - Project - Like To Join In?

[optic]

Yer im also like that with cute blondes.

Blah any chick for that matter im a bloody tart.

[Leper]

Yer im also like that with cute blondes.

Blah any chick for that matter im a bloody tart.

Nothing wrong with being a trollop mate. Just don't let ya mrs or gf find out. They might just dig out your capeing knife.

:lol:

[cj7hawk]

Some piccies so far.

The end caps that SamHuntVic supplies are very sturdy & thick, an easy 6mm+ thickness, good enough to machine on the lathe!

Cheers, Paul.S

That looks very nice... BTW, using a lathe is cheating! *sigh* Wish I had a lathe... If my toolset was any thinner, I'd have to chew my way through the plastic like a rat - Ah, the sweet taste of leaded plastic

That also looks very strong.

Don't forget that PVC is translucent to Infra Red light - You'll need to paint the parts black to keep the light out. Otherwise you will lose contrast - even at night. You don't have to paint everything black though and you can limit it to the spacer around the photocathode that holds the tube back from the lens and the inside of the front cap if you want a different colour for the outside.

Painting can be the last step though. I've usually assembled, tested and completed my housings by the time I reach for a paintbrush.

David.

[optic]

Gee i love dealing with the poms this time of night they are there to answer your questions.

My new toy is on its way already.

Looks like production may start next week on the trial unit, at the very least on the tube and end caps anyway.

And cj7 has come up with a couple of ideas on the laser sight its simple and cheap so its all good.

Cheers.

[Duncs]

Only a couple of orders for the aluminium pipe frame so far guys so don't be shy - let me know if you're after one.

[Guest caveman]

did i send my pm to the wrong bloke, what's the cost on it duncs,

what's this laser sight thingy you mention

Edited February 6, 2010 by caveman

[Duncs]

You must have, caveman. No order from you in my pm list.

If anyone else is wondering, if I haven't replied to your PM then I haven't received anything from you.

Not sure of price yet - Optic is still going through his prototye(s). Sounds like the laser sight thingy is part of the latest prototype.

[cj7hawk]

You must have, caveman. No order from you in my pm list.

If anyone else is wondering, if I haven't replied to your PM then I haven't received anything from you.

Not sure of price yet - Optic is still going through his prototye(s). Sounds like the laser sight thingy is part of the latest prototype.

Both capable of being laser sighted and reflex sighted, though the reflex sight will need to be "modified" a little - something I'm working on. Then it will have "Day/Night" capability. That part will go a little slow because I need to get one and see what's involved in modifying it, except my wallet got stolen last week... Card replacement is a slow and painful process.

But it should be possible to use as part of a night shooting system, one way or another.

David.

[optic]

I have to see if i can arrange a 3mtr length of tube, otherwise ill have tube left over just laying around.

The tube cost is cheap unit price for tube will be about $5.00 but until we have a finished unit neither of us are sure of the cost.

But as i said the only cost will be what i have to purchase and postage.

Dont let this project stop you guys from making them out of PVC, will be a good thing for you to know how it all works before you fit it into the ally tube,

And if you come across a problem please let myself know, if its a fit problem, or CJ7 if its electrical.

The parts Cj sent have arrived so ill play with the fit of the female thread. get that right then get the rest made up my inner tube will be here this weel, so ill have enough parts to make a up a dummy model.

CJ how did you go with that battery box? happy or want it changed?

Cheers.

[Guest caveman]

hhow would allumin irrigation pipe go fit wise

[optic]

Was wondering that myself caveman if remember right it has a very thin wall in it? Feel free to bring me up to date on that if you wish.

The only reason we went for 80mm x2mm wall thickness was it gave us the size of fits we needed, and we also want to use the wall thickness so that the screws have something to seat into, it also ment that if needed i could skim a bit off the wall if need be.

And Cj7 has already had his together and based on that i followed his advice, when you see the drawings it all fits well.

Nice and snug.

cheers.

[Guest caveman]

in that case forget the irrigation pipe as it is thin walled

[cj7hawk]

I have to see if i can arrange a 3mtr length of tube, otherwise ill have tube left over just laying around.

The tube cost is cheap unit price for tube will be about $5.00 but until we have a finished unit neither of us are sure of the cost.

But as i said the only cost will be what i have to purchase and postage.

Dont let this project stop you guys from making them out of PVC, will be a good thing for you to know how it all works before you fit it into the ally tube,

And if you come across a problem please let myself know, if its a fit problem, or CJ7 if its electrical.

The parts Cj sent have arrived so ill play with the fit of the female thread. get that right then get the rest made up my inner tube will be here this weel, so ill have enough parts to make a up a dummy model.

CJ how did you go with that battery box? happy or want it changed?

Cheers.

I suspect you will find interest peaks after we've completed the prototype and a few people have them. Night Vision is one of those things that once you look through it, you realize what you're missing.

I have to buy the exact parts tomorrow (Clip-based battery adapter and sealed switch) and measure them up. ( I've used slightly different parts to date. ) - As a thought, if we make it about another 15mm longer and 4 more screws, then we can have two parts - the switch/electronics housing ( that goes through to the tube) and a battery compartment. Perhaps with a small hole between the two that we can run a wire through and silicon in. Like what you designed, with a "partition" in the middle

That will seal the tube in completely when assembled and won't break the seal when the batteries are changed. Batteries should work for 40+ hours continuous but still need to be changed occasionally.

We could also slip a packet of silica gel in the compartment when sealing it, which would absorb moisture and have the same effect as nitrogen purging.

Just an idea, playing with what you had - though if we're using packets of silica gel ( dessicant ) then it would only make a difference if you changed the batteries out in the field on a damp day. Your thoughts?

David.

[optic]

I like it, can do anything with the battery box, and its a good idea.

Just on that, i dont have a problem with things being changed at all, the end result will be a top bit of gear, and that is all that counts.

Got the thread sorted out, no problems there.

Found some 80mm solid ally bar about a mtr long so there is plenty of it,considering the end caps are only short in length.

And my toy turned up today, a tad dirty but i hope its all ok, its a heavy little fart but i ilke it.

Lol the things i get myself into, now there will be no stopping me and to top things off im flat out at work again, I know the world went quiet but i have not stopped for more than 12 months? And they are spending up big so its a good sign for us all.

Looks like a job for the apprentice lol, well some of it anyway.

Have any of you guys that got the tube put it together yet other than CJ7?

Im interested to see what you think of it made out of plastic?

Cheers.

[m70]

I like it, can do anything with the battery box, and its a good idea.

Just on that, i dont have a problem with things being changed at all, the end result will be a top bit of gear, and that is all that counts.

Got the thread sorted out, no problems there.

Found some 80mm solid ally bar about a mtr long so there is plenty of it,considering the end caps are only short in length.

And my toy turned up today, a tad dirty but i hope its all ok, its a heavy little fart but i ilke it.

Lol the things i get myself into, now there will be no stopping me and to top things off im flat out at work again, I know the world went quiet but i have not stopped for more than 12 months? And they are spending up big so its a good sign for us all.

Looks like a job for the apprentice lol, well some of it anyway.

Have any of you guys that got the tube put it together yet other than CJ7?

Im interested to see what you think of it made out of plastic?

Cheers.

I'd already gathered most of the parts in plastic before your offer Optic, so I'll finish it in plastic first to see how it turns out. The jury is still out on an aluminium one, might be a bit cool to touch on a Winter night...

So far I've set a Canon "FD" lens mount in one of SamHuntVic's endcaps, and slotted a cut-down 50mm threaded pipe joiner into it, to act as the adjuster & holder for the P8079HP.

On the ocular/ eyepiece side, I'm using an eyepiece simply screwed out of a Tasco 4x32 riflescope I've had for ages as a spare. The advantage of this is: A) It sits inside a Vinidex 40mm PVC threaded pipe joiner like it was made for it, and It's focal length is spot on when butted up against the viewing screen of the P8079HP, without any modifications, and C) It will also be adjustable so as to support the P8079HP, and D) an old 40mm scope cap fits over it too!

Next step is to machine the rear end cap to accept the ocular/eyepiece assembly, then the electrics.

Still trying to decide on a neat battery pack, I'll probably do a plug in job, so that the unit can't be turned on by accident or by my inquisitive kids..

Cheers, Paul.S

NV2.BMP

[m70]

Another piccy

NV3.BMP

[cj7hawk]

Another piccy

Very nice - And very adjustable

Anyway, Optic, here's the battery bay INSIDE dimensions:

32mm wide ( allows for 1mm either side for padding foam )

128mm long ( inc allowance for 5mm radius corners )

19mm high ( allows for 1mm top/bottom for padding foam )

Padding foam can be stick on ( weather seal ) or just pressed in around battery.

For the "electronics" compartment.

35mm to allow switch installation.

Switch mouting hole 6.2mm (6.5 fine)

Above this, a 2.5mm hole to a depth of 2mm for the switch anti-rotation keyway.

The switch is IP-67 rated and so is the boot that covers it. Switch and battery pack and wires and boot all cost less than $20...

Also, we need a small threaded section in this area with a small screw to attach "Ground".

That's about it I'll knock up a quick diagram if I get a chance later tonight

David.

Edited February 8, 2010 by cj7hawk

[Worm]

Good stuff m70!! Looks fantastic.

All this talk makes it sound so complicated. Maybe once you get the bits and start playing Tetris with them it will make sense hah

[optic]

Your right there worm, i was the same looking at sketches and so on.

But my Image int/ turned up this week and it all looks alot more simple now

Also put my mind to work on other things ,which i had doubt about. But not anymore.

Just having it,made things alot easier, the design will be easy to put together, the parts will be simple and all the same.

CJ7 sure is giving this thing all his heart, and i can assure you these things will look good and work well.

So as you say if you guys can bear with us until we get the first 1 sorted im sure the wait will be worth it.

And your work on the plastic item looks good mate well done.

Cheers

[Worm]

So are you guys making some and then post up a step by step on how to make one? Or are you guys making them and selling them? Im a little confused.

A step by step would be awesome, but Ill give it a shot with the instructions provided (once I can afford the tube!) anyways.... unless you guys are doing the step by step bit, then ill wait