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It is most likely the wiring to the female cigarete lighter plug not the plug it's self . I found that most vehicles had light wiring to the plugs. Theres a few ways to fix it . 1/ Run new heavier wire from the existing cig plug directly to the battery and incorporate a 15 amp fuse in the line . 2/ If that's too hard to access then buy a new female cig plug , inline type and run new wire from it to the battery with fuse . 3/ Run new wires from better plugs direct to the battery . 4/ Run the spotlight wires direct to the battery with aligator clips , out a window and under the bonnet , make sure the aligator clips can't come off or short on anything . I ran 100 watt spot lights for years from two extra panel mounted cigarete plugs that were wired directly to the battery . The plugs don't look much but they can handle 10 amp no worries but they do have to fit tight . 100 watt -:- 12 volt = 8.3 amp. It's most likely the wiring behind the plug that can't handle the current or the contacts are loose or it is possible that the cigarete plug is just a bad design . The cars wiring should be on a 10 amp fuse and be capable of supplying 120 watts but it seems it's not doing it . Better plugs is a good idea but it reduces flexibility for me as I have portable power packs that have cigarete plugs so it hard to swap. I would try option 2 as it would replace all the cars sytem .

Yes they could be but are they contaminated with high frequency white noise that we can't hear but the animals can ? It is possible . Animals can see things we can't see and hear things we can't hear . Some game calls could be electronically produced to sound like the real thing to us ! Maybe the good ones are recordings of actual animals . I don't know it's just a theory .

I don't own an electronic caller however I do know something about sound production and animals hearing . Is it possible that there is white noise sound in those calls that's above our hearing but able to be heard by say a fox in addition to the call we hear . So that may make the call foreign , scary or not enticing to the animal . When you blow a tenterfield or button whistle it could be a more pure sound . When someone says he has XYZ call , that does not mean that his XYZ call has been produced with exactly the same sound quality and purity as another call with the same name . Just a theory . At this time of year in the South the food supply is running low for fox's so some should come to a whistle or caller . I have shot fox's from April to September with varing degrees of success. If they are hungry they should come.

Hunting is not like casual bush walking. During hunting a lot of your concentration is on the hunt and even the best bushman in the world can still get lost or geographically embarrassed at times . Also never venture into the deep bush relying totally on someone else's navigational ability . You should have your own capability even if it's only a single saved way point in your own GPS unit of where the car is or where camp is , whatever way point you need that gets you back safe . Even the cheapest GPS can save your ass if you are not the main navigator . If you are the main navigator , like for yourself or a group then a better GPS with maps is a good idea. A Garmin of some kind is the way to go .

Yeah if you can't get the double then go with with two singles RCR123A

I think it might be the " Double RCR123 battery " which I think is rechargable . Not a 100% sure though you will have to look it up.

I use a 12 volt 7 amp sealed lead acid battery with a female cigarette lighter plug taped to the top . Then you buy a projecta 12 volt float charger from super cheap or autobarn http://www.projecta.com.au/Products/BatteryChargers/ChargeNMaintain.aspx#!prettyPhoto[iframes]/0/ and fit a male cigarette lighter plug to one set of leads. Then fit a male cigarette lighter plug to the spotlight cable . The spotlight can now be used inside the car and in the field. When in the field I swap to a 55 watt globe which will give about 60 to 70 minutes of good light if you use another small light to walk by .Even at 100 watts you still get 30 to 40 minutes of good bright light there abouts. If you want extra running time and don't mind the extra weight you can buy an 18 to 20 amp 12 volt SLA battery . Then put the battery in a cheap shoulder bag or back pack of some kind. You can also get chargers that plug into the cigarette socket in the car and charge it up as you drive around during the day or you could get a unit that charges the small battery from a bigger battery . Then there is solar panel chargers .

Lithium ion cells are a differnt volatge per cell than other batteries so they need a special charger . Also they have to be charged to a certain point and then the charger has to cut off or damage will result . Although they do exibit a rise in internal resistance as they charge up that throttles off the current but the voltage needs to be shut off before each cell goes over about 3.8 volts ( 4.2 absolute max) They are the only cells that last longer if you under charge them. Here is some charging info from the net . Charging and discharging batteries is a chemical reaction, but Li-ion is claimed as an exception. Here, battery scientists talk about energies flowing in and out as part of ion movement between anode and cathode. This claim has merits, but if the scientists were totally right then the battery would live forever, and this is wishful thinking. The experts blame capacity fade on ions getting trapped. For simplicity, we consider aging a corrosion that affects all battery systems. The Li‑ion charger is a voltage-limiting device that is similar to the lead acid system. The difference lies in a higher voltage per cell, tighter voltage tolerance and the absence of trickle or float charge at full charge. While lead acid offers some flexibility in terms of voltage cut‑off, manufacturers of Li‑ion cells are very strict on the correct setting because Li-ion cannot accept overcharge. The so-called miracle charger that promises to prolong battery life and methods that pump extra capacity into the cell do not exist here. Li-ion is a “clean” system and only takes what it can absorb. Anything extra causes stress. Most cells charge to 4.20V/cell with a tolerance of +/–50mV/cell. Higher voltages could increase the capacity, but the resulting cell oxidation would reduce service life. More important is the safety concern if charging beyond 4.20V/cell. Figure 1 shows the voltage and current signature as lithium-ion passes through the stages for constant current and topping charge. Figure 1: Charge stages of lithium-ion. Li-ion is fully charged when the current drops to a predetermined level or levels out at the end of Stage 2. In lieu of trickle charge, some chargers apply a topping charge when the voltage drops to 4.05V/cell (Stage 4). Courtesy of Cadex The charge rate of a typical consumer Li-ion battery is between 0.5 and 1C in Stage 1, and the charge time is about three hours. Manufacturers recommend charging the 18650 cell at 0.8C or less. Charge efficiency is 97 to 99 percent and the cell remains cool during charge. Some Li-ion packs may experience a temperature rise of about 5ºC (9ºF) when reaching full charge. This could be due to the protection circuit and/or elevated internal resistance. Full charge occurs when the battery reaches the voltage threshold and the current drops to three percent of the rated current. A battery is also considered fully charged if the current levels off and cannot go down further. Elevated self-discharge might be the cause of this condition. Increasing the charge current does not hasten the full-charge state by much. Although the battery reaches the voltage peak quicker with a fast charge, the saturation charge will take longer accordingly. The amount of charge current applied simply alters the time required for each stage; Stage 1 will be shorter but the saturation Stage 2 will take longer. A high current charge will, however, quickly fill the battery to about 70 percent. Li-ion does not need to be fully charged, as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge, because high voltages stresses the battery. Choosing a lower voltage threshold, or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. Since the consumer market promotes maximum runtime, these chargers go for maximum capacity rather than extended service life. Some lower-cost consumer chargers may use the simplified “charge-and-run” method that charges a lithium-ion battery in one hour or less without going to the Stage 2 saturation charge. “Ready” appears when the battery reaches the voltage threshold at Stage 1. Since the state-of-charge (SoC) at this point is only about 85 percent, the user may complain of short runtime, not knowing that the charger is to blame. Many warranty batteries are being replaced for this reason, and this phenomenon is especially common in the cellular industry. Avoiding full charge has benefits, and some manufacturers set the charge threshold lower on purpose to prolong battery life.

The 170 is perfect as it is not too large to handle . I prefer my 170 for out the window spotting and in the paddock , compared to a 240 . The 240 is good on the roof though . I sometimes put a 50 or 55 watt globe in my 170 instead of the 100 watt to save battery power when walking around . That's another advantage to QH globes easy to switch about and relatively cheap to buy if you crack one. Another tip is don't touch the glass globe with bare fingers as the contaminates from your fingers can cause the glass to harden with heat and reduce the life of the globe. Use a a clean cloth or cleaning patch to change globes.

Red filter can work but it can also make it harder to see the detail especially for older eyes . Reduces the range capability of the spotlight . The mistake that some new shooters make is they keep the light on the game constantly so it can scare it off a bit . Once you spot a fox keep track of it but don't hurt his eyes with constant light all the time , move the light on and off the fox until the shooter is ready and then put it full on the fox. This also helps pick up other game that may also be in the area when you move the light off the fox . Also helps to confuse the fox as to wether he has been seen or not . They are very smart .

It's true that white HID and some LED light is better to see through a scope but the drawback can be that the HID is too bright on the games eyes at close range and they turn away from the light making them harder to pick up again in cover . Also it is very easy to hook up a spotlight with reverse polarity in the dark and damage the HID ballast . Find out if the spotlight has reverse polarity protection . HID globes do last longer than QH globes but they are harder and way more expensive to buy in an emergency . For the longer range spotlighting HID is good .

There is many ways to spotlight so everyone has slightly different requirements . I think in the end you have to go with the setup that suits the way you do it .