Jase

Plenty of figure-8 mounts around. There is one made my (or sod by) Led Lenser which is designed for their torches. It's still a figure-8 but it's better than a lot of the ones I've seen. There is a tap switch tail that I suggest. Great for easy shooting. And if it goes flat, the normal unit can be whacked in there fresh batterie and give you another few hours. Jase

Easy 80 meters. out further if you have a scope with really good light transmission.

There is apparently 2 different type of LED units in the P7. One is a coast, which is a chinese unit, and the other is a german unit I think. Can't remember the name. I bought mine from an Australian reseller and it has the Coast LED in it (you can read it through the lens)and I have to say I will be buying another one. A lot of the EBay units are marked as "Coast P7" and as far as I am concerned are the same as my australian officialy imported model. Not sure if the other emitter provides better/different light, but I love my P7 for bunnies. Great Buy. Jase

Aku are what I use. Designed as hiking boots, waterproof (got bogged in the pouring rain and bone dry feet when I got home) very comfortable, good support. Italian. Jase

I was having a hunt around about found this site. http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=4246&p=17889&viewfull=1 I asked earlier where this IIT would have been used and someone said vehicles. That made perfect sense to me given their size, so I was pretty surprised to see that our IITs came out of a weapon sight. Cheers, Jase

Was a cheap find on ebay when the dollar was good.

I have a bushnell legend arc that I got from the states for 230 deliverd. Little more than your ebay unit, but very good quality, measurs in meters and yards. Also has about 12 programs in it for telling you your bullet drop at the ranged distance. Is pretty accurate if you match weight/speed to the programs. Agree with Archeenemy re customes fees. I've bought in heaps of stuff under 500 and not been hit once. I think the figure is actually 1000 from memory. Cheers, Jase

Well, after much buggerising around I finally got a good result. So here are the cliff notes of the build: 75mm F1.4 C-Mount TV Lens care of the link someone provided IIT from the UK Original occular designed for this IIT I tried to make a housing for it, but decided to go a semi temporary setup. I used a 65mm PVC Endcap, drilled a hole in the end and screwed the C-Mount lense in to it. This happened to fit perfectly over the objective end of the IIT. Bit of the trusty old electrical tape makes sure everything is secure and stops all the light getting into the wrong spots. 4xAA Batteries power it in a little switched battery box. I've whacked a Multi-coated UV filter on the end of the objective lense to give it a bit of protection. It's all pretty crude, but it will give me a good chance to test it while I figure out what I'll do with the housing. It took me a while to adjust the position of the lense to get a clear image. After some stuffing around, here is the result. This was taken with my ancient Olympus DSLR just lined up against the eyepeice. I have some marks somewhere in the setup. I've cleaned all the lense surfaces as well as both ends of the IIT. It is either in the IIT or the inside of the occular lense. Was just on midnight. This is the view from my home office window, through the window glass I might add, and there is a few street lights that are really lighting up the image. I've yet to test it out in the wilderness, but I am pretty sure it will perform beyond my expectations. If it's a little dull I'll get an IR filter for my lightforce 140. By the way, if you use an IR filter on an LED torch, does it work the same? I am glad I bought 2 tubes and 2 occulars. One tube was pretty average the other was great. Same with the lenses, one was usable, but the other was really nice and clear, no scratches etc. The objective lense was new so no worries there. Cheers guys. A big thanks to the guys that went the extra mile to help me along, you know who you are. Jase

Cheapest solution is just whack it onto the battery and grab a peice of cardboard, put it on top of the battery and close the bonnet. Then it won't short out. When yourun the cable up, there is normally a fair bit of room right at the back (closest to the windscreen) to allow the cables through. Cheers, Jase

Ok, I know I am bringing up an old thread, but I wanted to see this thing through. I got the 75mm F1.4 lense that someone posted an ebay link to. The IIT and the original ocular that was designed for it. I grabbed a 65mm PVC end cap, whacked a hole in it, and "screwed" in the lense. Bit of lecky tape on the eyepeice and wired it up for a test. Well.... all I can say is bugger me. I tested it during the daytime, in my hallway with all the doors shut. Not the best test I know, however it lit up very well. Hard to really see much because the light coming in through the gaps of the doors kinda blinded out the rest, but ...wow. I found that I could still see things as I wandered around the house with all the blinds down. It seems to get a bit of uh, noise? I guess when the shutter is open. I dial that down to make the image a little darker and things get clearer. Because of the way I've mounted the lense, I can't tell how much distance is between the end of the IIT and the base of the objective lense. I woud guess 8mm or so. What do I acheive by moving that closer to the IIT? I know earlier there was talk abou a 5mm spacer between the IIT and lense to make sure it was all right, but the images seem in focus (at the distances I've tested) Now all I have to do is make a more permanent power supply and make sure the objective lens wont fall off. I don't really have a housing for it so to speak. Optic do you have pictures of the housing you have lying around? I'm not really wanting to get something just to have to modify it for what I've got, but an idea would be good. Cheers, Jase

I live in my holeproof explorers. Hard to find them now. When hunting, I'll wear a pair of thinner shorter sockets, explorers over that, and my Aku hiking boots. Waterproof and warm feet all day and night. Rays in Abury still have some, maybe checkout your local rays, you might find some older stock. Jase

Aside from the connection being dodgy as the guys have said, you get more light going direct to battery. I have a Powabeam Pro 9 and almost returned it because the light was ####. Swapped it to aligators on the battery and I reckon I got 30% more light out of it. Definately go the dedicated socket (anderson or universal) or clip direct to the battery. Jase

Have you ever seen the right lense in your travels? I've got the right eyepeice, but i've looked pretty hard and never come across the objective lense. Out of interest too, has anyone got a pic or details about the device that these IITs actually came out of? Jase

You know i've been wondering, how easy it would be to mount these in front of a scope for shooting at night. I know there is distortion in the image, but I assume if you get it dead centre that wouldn't be a problem. Obviously it would be far too heavy to shoot off hand, but would there be a way? I am pretty excited about getting mine up and running. I have the proper eyepeice for it, and getting a nice new tv lense for it. Optic, I've said it already but thanks again. You've been a great help and have been very patient with me. Jase

I know this is an old thread. I'm just hoping for some clarification on a few things. I have 2 tubes, both working well. I bought 2 of these http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Lens-for-Varo-Night-Vision-Device_W0QQitemZ140424705674QQcategoryZ73363QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6746924725311779588#ht_2038wt_1137 and they have fited up into the rubber rings. There is some thread on these lenses (I assume these are the eyepeices, so thats what I'll call them from now on). Is there anything more that has to be attached to the eyepeice to make it work? CJ you mentioned that if we get these lenses that there has to be some machining work done? What exactly has to be machined? If I get one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-75mm-c-mount-TV-lens-brand-new-never-used-/310231253759?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item483b3942ff does that complete the project? At least into a working device that just then needs to be mounted and setup nicely? If I get one of these lenses also, how do they actually mount? Doesn't look like there is any thread or locking mechanism. Looking forward to some help, I'm eager to get mine at least working and usable. Jase

Importing yes, ordering no. If it's being shipped from somewhere in australia, then all they have to do is (some freight companies need this some dont) dangerous goods declarations. My fixed blade was a 60 dollar job from the LGS, works wonders, so very sharp. Better than my $140 buck knife. Jase

For anyone after one of these intensifier tubes, let me know. I have 2 for sale. Unfortunate series of events means I can't make my night vision scope.

Ok so I am on the torch bandwagon. I've got a P7 that mounts to my scope. Got an EDI-T P11 that is either scope or barrel mounted. Doesn't fit on my scopes (50mm objective) which means I am stuck with buying another mount or using the barrel mount for it. And that got me to thinking about barrel harmonics/vibrations and how they would be affected. So here is the question. We all know that barrel move, vibrate, whip etc. What effect does barrel mounting a torch have on this. How will it affect accuracy? Currently it will be on a .17HMR and/or .22LR so nothing huge, but I figure it will still have an impact (no pun intended) What do you guys think. BTW: It is a metal figure 8 mount and I have a thin layer of rubber between the barrel and the mount. Just in case that makes a difference. Cheers, Jase

Kilroy I've looked at the sealion hunter SO many time. The thing that has turned me off is the size/weight, but if it performs the way it should I think the price tag is worth it. I paid 300 bucks for my lightforce night hunter kit. I can reach out to about 250 meters with it. At the moment my P7 is coming close to giving me about the same light level at about 200 meters. I will use the P7 in favour of the heavy light and battery of the night hunter. Maybe the sealion is bang in the middle. Jase

Looks like all you have to do is point it at the bunny and the radiation will make it fall over stone cold dead. Fenring I know you are a torch freak, how does the Ultrafire WF-008 compare to the P7.

So something like these: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TAMRON-TV-ZOOM-LENS-9-126mm-F-1-1-6-466HB-VCL-914BY-/150456261926?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item2307e45d26 or http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Panasonic-WV-LZ83-6-F0-8-51mm-6X-TV-Zoom-Lens-/320565810584?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa3361598 I assume thats the objective. What do I need for the eye piece? Jase

I am hunting ebay for some lenses, if anyone happens to come across one I'd love to hear about it. I have a couple 4/3 lenses from my Olympus e300 DSLR, but I don't think it's fstop is low enough. Can someone show me exactly what it is that I am supposed to be using. I've got the tubes and they seem to be working ok, but I dont have an eyepiece or objective lense. I'm just a little lost. Jase

I bought a pair of Aku hiking boots. I' haven't been on any serious treks, but they are a vibram sole, goretex upper. Stiching is all on the inside. Good support and relatively stiff. I am really happy with them. Hunting at night when the grass is all wet and slipper these things give really good grip and feel very stable. Not purpose designed Hunting boots, but purpose designed hiking boots, and honestly, hunting is just hiking with a gun. Just my 2c worth. Jase

For those who are worried about not hearing animals, there are plenty of electronic earmuffs that are pretty comfortable. The Peltor Protac II comes to mind. Blocks loud noises and can actually amplify ambient noise. What could be better than no hearing damage when you take a shot, and superhero hearing when you are between shots! Jase

I whacked a Lightforce red filter for the 240 series onto my PowaBeam and gave it a whirl the other night. The bunnies stayed around quite a while longer. The kangaroos didn't bolt (gotta do a bit of nature watching when there is nothing to shoot...) It seemed to be pretty good, but I have to admit I am not fond of the amount of light lost. Same issue with the red filter on my night hunter 170 rifle mounted spotty. I might try the amber filter and see how I go with that. The bunnys bolt straight away without a filter and foxes even 200 odd meters away run off. I put it on mainly for foxes but haven't seen one since. This is all out in the chiltern area. In the gun shop the other day and he said there was another color filter that people were using with good results. I think he said it was the blue one? I've heard that blue filters have the same issue with lowering the light output though. Interested to hear what other guys use. Jase