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Knife Making


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In my experience if you let the metal go to a straw colour the tempering is to fast . It is better to temper a a lower temp and allow the steel to relax over time to get a hard blade that holders a good edge that lasts but is still tough .

If your steel does not reach the correct temperature during tempering it can remain brittle. If what you are doing is working for you then that is great.

I have tested my blades and know that what I am doing with the steel I have is 100% correct.

This blade cracked during the quench. It was the fourth knife in a batch and it sliced right through the oil down to some water that was at the bottom of the drum :blink: Oops

heattreatdisaster.jpg

I put the tip of the knife between some pieces of timber in my vice and a piece of pipe over the handle and went to town. I got that pipe to hit 45 degrees and I broke half an inch off the tip first (I thought it would snap at the crack for sure)then I put it in vice up to the crack. You can see it broke eventually. I had the pipe at almost 90 degrees and even though it was 4 foot worth of pipe it took a bloody great effort to do it.

heattreatdisaster4.jpg

heattreatdisaster3.jpg

I took the remains in to a mate at ADFA and we had it tested on the rockwell machine. 59rc on the edge and 45rc on the spine.

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If your steel does not reach the correct temperature during tempering it can remain brittle. If what you are doing is working for you then that is great.

I have tested my blades and know that what I am doing with the steel I have is 100% correct.

This blade cracked during the quench. It was the fourth knife in a batch and it sliced right through the oil down to some water that was at the bottom of the drum :blink: Oops

heattreatdisaster.jpg

I put the tip of the knife between some pieces of timber in my vice and a piece of pipe over the handle and went to town. I got that pipe to hit 45 degrees and I broke half an inch off the tip first (I thought it would snap at the crack for sure)then I put it in vice up to the crack. You can see it broke eventually. I had the pipe at almost 90 degrees and even though it was 4 foot worth of pipe it took a bloody great effort to do it.

heattreatdisaster4.jpg

heattreatdisaster3.jpg

I took the remains in to a mate at ADFA and we had it tested on the rockwell machine. 59rc on the edge and 45rc on the spine.

Awesome work yes it makes a big difference what temp you need for different steels . That handle is great nice wood and finish . I am currently putting together a new gas forge as open air forging with a oxy torch has limitations that i need to get rid of .

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I got out in the shed today and fired up the oven (turned it on) :) . I heat treated a really thin 440c test knife just to see if it would warp as I'd never done anything under 2mm. No warping at all. I did some finishing off on one of my other knives then LuckyPhill and Doggindan came over to shape dans knife and have a couple of drinks. If it wasn't so cold It'd be a perfect day.

Dan having a go

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I got out in the shed today and fired up the oven (turned it on) :) . I heat treated a really thin 440c test knife just to see if it would warp as I'd never done anything under 2mm. No warping at all. I did some finishing off on one of my other knives then LuckyPhill and Doggindan came over to shape dans knife and have a couple of drinks. If it wasn't so cold It'd be a perfect day.

Dan having a go

That's a fare effort for a belt sander AH.Don't think that I have ever seen one like that,and I have seen some good ones in the past.

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That's a fare effort for a belt sander AH.Don't think that I have ever seen one like that,and I have seen some good ones in the past.

I made it a couple of years ago and it's based on the american kmg grinder. Plenty of knifemakers have made theyre own, they come in real handly for other things too. Grinding, shaping and polishing can be easily done. Here's a link to some "grinder porn" for those interested.

http://gonza-rytec.rajce.idnes.cz/brusky/

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Got out in the shed today and heat treated 5 knives 4x ats34 and one 440c. I bought a thermometer and used it on the cryo quench process so I could check temps which I haven't done before, it was -58 on the tang. That'd get your beers cold pretty quick :P

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I've got one that I bought years ago at the big swap meet at ballarat. I bought coke from a place at kilmore and had a bash at some leaf springs. The steel does seem useful enough, never checked the hardness. I've still got the blanks around somewhere. I preffer stock removal, it's alot easier. I'll post a pic later.

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I remember talking to an old bloke that made knives back in the 50's and 60's and he recon'd the old FJ holden front springs were the ducks guts for knives, when I told him my uncle has a few up on the farm just lying there he got excited and asked if I would rip the springs out for him , he offered me $200 for each and that was back in the late 80's.

I just got a green river kit for my son to put together and sharpen and polish up, recon it will take a few hours to get it right as it's a pretty basic kit but it's got everything you need and instructions as well, it was only $30 so if he stuffs up it's no big deal.

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Here's a pic of the little forge I've used a few times:

It's basically a hollow pipe with a blower motor on it. On top is a small steel plate with vertical sides which holds the coke or coal in place. It has holes drilled in the bottom of it to allow the air being blown up to fuel to coals. I think the motor is out of a car AC. I bought it for $50 and I think it's money well spent.

Some knives out of the cryo quench in the dry ice:

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I remember talking to an old bloke that made knives back in the 50's and 60's and he recon'd the old FJ holden front springs were the ducks guts for knives, when I told him my uncle has a few up on the farm just lying there he got excited and asked if I would rip the springs out for him , he offered me $200 for each and that was back in the late 80's.

I just got a green river kit for my son to put together and sharpen and polish up, recon it will take a few hours to get it right as it's a pretty basic kit but it's got everything you need and instructions as well, it was only $30 so if he stuffs up it's no big deal.

I saw an old bloke on tv years ago who said the same thing about FJ springs.

Your son will enjoy putting together the knife, it'll serve you well for years to come.

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I remember seeing an article where a guy in Tassie was making them out of old railroad spikes.

I would love to get into it but I make enough noise as it is , my neighbours will fire bomb my home if I start banging away on an anvil.

I made a little forge for heating lead and moulds for making sinkers, blowwer at the bottom etc, it really get's the lead pot cherry red.

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Iam putting together a gas forge at the moment . I have made the burner it has a 20mm nozzel got the designe of a knife making furom a wile back . making a anvil at the moment out of rail line . Its comming together just slowly at the moment as time and money are sort . Thanks all .

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Hey all

I am looking into making some knives after I finally get my shed built. At present I have nothing in the way of handyman tools to put in the shed and was just wondering if anyone can give a complete amateur some advice on what I will need to make some knives. I am planning on getting a wood lathe as well. Also if anyone can direct me to a good book or site on how to start making knives it would be very much appreciated

Cheers

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The most basic way is the 'stock removal' technique. That is, start with a piece of flat bar, of a suitable steel, and file/grind away the bits that don't look like a blade.

A good online tutorial on the tools and basics [will need to sign up to see most of the pics]: http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?8666-Tutorial-Basic-knifemaking-tool-list

Sources:

Books/DVD's

http://huntingbooks.com.au/equipment/knives

http://www.bundukibooks.com/

Full range of supplies, books, etc:

http://www.knivesaustralia.com.au/akc-homepage.html

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